List of posts

  • Crème brulée

    Crème brulée

    So let’s get the history out of the way: No, it wasn’t invented at Cambridge University in the 19th century; it existed at least as far back as the 17th century in France, Catalan, Flanders and elsewhere. Because frankly, the idea of mixing together eggs, milk and cream isn’t something that takes hundreds of years…

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  • Meringues

    Meringues

    I have said – boasted, even – elsewhere that the only electrical device I use in a kitchen is a hand-held immersion blender. A cheap one, to boot, a €10 device bought from Lidl, Europe’s favourite discount supermarket chain.This is a lie.I also have a hand-held mixer. For mixing cake mix and for whipping up…

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  • Tartiflette

    Tartiflette

    Several people have asked for details on how to make this, so here we go.You need potatoes, lardons, onions, cream, milk, salt and pepper. And grated cheese. And butter.Slice up the onions fairly thinly – about 1-2mm slices. Put them in a pan with hot butter and the lardons and fry them off until the…

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  • A day cooking with Scarlett

    A day cooking with Scarlett

    I hope that, when I’m even older and creakier, my daughters will continue their love of cooking. Right now at 6 and 8 they love cooking with Papa; we’ll see if it continues, but it’s a good start.First things first, write out your prep list. This is very important – work out what needs to…

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  • Basil oil

    Basil oil

    This is a very simple sauce, condiment if you will, that I use mostly on Trilogies but which also goes very well with carpaccio of beef, tomatoes on their own or more or less any place where you find a need for something a bit vinaigrette-y.And best of all it’s really simple to make.Buy a…

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  • Pancakes again

    Pancakes again

    Well, crêpes really I suppose. I think of ‘pancakes’ as being the thick, stodgy affairs my mother cooked on Pancake Day (Shrove Tuesday or Mardi Gras) when I was a kid, or those things served in American diners. Which are fine and which I love with maple syrup and butter and bacon, but crêpes are…

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  • Quick hedgerow tart

    Quick hedgerow tart

    We (OK, OK, my wife) picked a sack of blackberries when we went for a walk along the old railway line the other day, and she’s been hassling me to do something with them ever since.Like, she said, make a tart. With crème patissiere. And pâte sablé.Well, me and pastry – as they say in…

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  • Brioche buns

    Brioche buns

    So when I was younger – OK, over 40 years ago – I went to an English Public School. The thing you have to know straight away about English Public Schools is that they’re not Public, they’re Private. Not just anyone can go there, OH no. You have to pass an exam – commonly called…

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  • Been baking again.

    Been baking again.

    Just some bread and madeleines.But, miam!

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  • Non-Proustian madeleines

    I have made thousands, tens of thousands, perhaps even hundreds of thousands of these madeleines. I can make them in my sleep. I may even have made them in my sleep, in fact. I can make them in an hour, enough for a giant birthday party with enough left over for breakfast.In fact, I’ve made…

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