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Tag Archives: Almond tuiles

Recipe: Tuiles aux amandes

20 Wednesday Aug 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Recipe

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Almond tuiles, Homemade, Posh biscuits, Pretend homemade

Ingredients200g chopped or crushed almonds200g icing sugar50g plain flour2 whole eggs2 egg whites50g butterA little vanilla essence if you likeSome butter to grease your baking trayMethodAlmond Tuiles are excellent for a couple of reasons. First, they fast really excellent. Secondly, and most importantly, they give you Top Bragging Rights. “Mmm, these are lovely” your guests will exclaim upon eating them with whatever cheap dessert you’re trying to dress up a bit. “Where did you buy them?”“The Almond Tuiles?” you’ll reply with initial capital letters. “Oh those, I made them this morning.”Do your best to keep a smug grin off your face and don’t, whatever you do, explain how simple they are to make.So, first you melt the butter and allow it to cool. While it’s chilling you mix together the almonds, sugar and flour and then the eggs (whole and whites) which you should lightly beat together with a fork first. Now add in the cooled, melted butter (although not so cooled it’s hard again. Duh) and the vanilla essence if you want it.Allow the mixture to rest for half an hour in a covered bowl, then put well-spaced spoonfuls onto a greased baking tray. I use silicone liners called Silpats in some parts of the world, marvelous things to which nothing will stick. Flatten the piles down with the back of a moistened fork, making sure they’re in nice, regular, I-can-pretend-these-are-shop-bought shapes and cook at 220C for around 5 minutes. You need to keep an eye on them because they go from ‘not ready’ to ‘call the fire brigade’ in about 8 seconds – a good excuse to clean the glass in the oven door.They also continue cooking for a short while after you take them out of the oven, so you need to take them out just before they’re done. Easy.Also, when you take them out of the oven they’re quite malleable – you can bend them over a glass or rolling pin to take on pleasing shapes. If you’re quick, you can roll them into a cone and drop them into a champagne flute to make nice cones for, say, your expensive pretend-it’s-homemade sorbets.I promise not to tell.

Chapter 20: Week 18 – I don’t punk out

26 Saturday Jul 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Chapter, Influences

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Accident, Almond tuiles, Bavarois, Bourdain, Harold McGee, Ill, On Food and Cooking, Tuiles

Per Bourdain’s advice, although still tired after my recent illness I manage to keep up with this morning’s recipe, “Appareil à Bavarois aux oeufs”. The English for ‘Bavarois’ appears to be ‘Bavarois’ – I’m already largely losing my ability to talk in English much of the time. Well, you can call it a ‘Bavarian cream’ if you like, but that probably means less to most people than ‘Bavarois’. Although officially the French acknowledge it as a Swiss – not Bavarian – invention, it was a famous part of the repertoire of Marie-Antoine Carème, the world’s first celebrity chef. Escoffier, the world’s second celebrity chef, reckoned it should more properly be called a Muscovite since after the mixture was poured into a hermetically-sealed mould it was set by being plunged into a container of ice and salt. Nowadays it’s easy to make such things, but a hundred years ago unmoulding such an item before one’s guests must have been an impressive sight.You can make two sorts of Bavarois, set either with gelatine or with fruit pulp; frankly, to my inexperienced mind the idea of setting anything vaguely jelly-like with fruit pulp sounds beyond unlikely and our school chef is in agreement; we’re going to be belt-and-bracing with both fruit pulp and gelatine.We also get into a discussion about pineapple; apparently you can’t set pineapple anything into a jelly because, well, pineapple jelly doesn’t set. Chef doesn’t know why, it just doesn’t. Later I check this out in the new edition of the magnificent Harold McGee’s ‘On Food and Cooking: The science and lore of the kitchen‘ and it turns out that pineapple contains an enzyme that breaks down gelatine’s setting molecules. Use agar agar if you need to set pineapple jelly (or Bavarois).We make almond tuiles to go with the Bavarois; these I know already, I’ve been making them by the hundred at the restaurant for the patissier, and having lots of fun with them too. We sometimes make them slightly larger than the standard ‘decoration’ size and slip the burning-hot tuiles straight from the oven into champagne flutes to make them into cornets, which we use to serve the ‘cornucopia de sorbets’ and other desserts. Very pretty.Lunch is another unremarkable experience in the student-catered canteen until the return walk across the car park; some complete asshole of a girl careers across the pavement loaded down with a chum riding sidesaddle on the rear of her scooter and smacks straight into me from behind. Smack into my bad leg, in fact, and I go down heavily.She’s hurt my leg, which is painful, but has also managed to push my whole foot about two centimetres forward in my shoe, crushing my toes against the internal steel toe cap. My foot was already swollen and painful, now I can barely get my shoe off and, when I do, it keeps on swelling.Good grief.The school receptionist takes an injury statement while a taxi arrives and ferries me to the doctor and then on home; more bed rest is prescribed. Huh. I need to work tomorrow and the two days after that, so I load my injured limb down with bags of ice and frozen peas and manage to sleep not at all. Brilliant.Tuesday morning and Delphine drops me off at work. I can walk OK now and my swollen foot has gone down enough to allow me to at least get a shoe on. I don’t say anything to Chef, if I did he’d try to make me go home and end up trying to do 30 covers all on his own, so that’s not on obviously.It’s not as bad as it could be, anyway; the party coming in are a cheap bunch of English tourists who are eating for €15 a head. Wine included. Considering that our cheapest such menu for three courses is €25, we’re not serving them the full gastronomic experience so, while it’s good (we even get a couple of ‘Compliments to the Chef’ messages via the Maitre d’) it’s not what we normally do.I get a bus home after lunch and another back in the evening, and again the same for the next couple of days before just collapsing back into bed. When I’ve had this illness before it’s laid me up for weeks at a time, so it’s lucky that the restaurant is, mostly, closed at the moment and I can save my energy for going to school.

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