New stuff

So I’ve been doing a fair bit of Computational Adjustments myself recently, with some results that may or may not be interesting.
This all began a few months ago when I finally gave up on Norton AV which was point-blank refusing to allow me to pay for another year’s service, so I installed AVG from Grisoft. Which promptly allowed in a virus which wiped the MBRs of three hard discs. I got the data back with a very useful widget called GetbackNTFS – highly recommended – and just did a new install of Windows XP on the C: drive. Which promptly went bang, as did one of my data discs.
The C: drive was an 8-year-old Maxtor and entitled to do so; the data disc was an 8 MONTH old Samsung, and not so entitled. Now, suffice to say, this computer has three 200 gigabyte Maxtor HDs and I have a claim in against Samsung.

Get out more

So we went to the pictures and ate out last night; Garden State at the Utopia – good flick with one of my favourite actors in it, Zapp Brannigan or whatever that bloke out of Scrubs is called (OK, not so ‘favourite’ that I can remember his name). Then Tapas at TapaLocas much to the derision of the cooks at work today. Apparently the grub there is ‘rubbish’, not that any of them have eaten there. Still, they’re impressed that TL did 900 covers a day during the festival last year. I just think about the PBD (Poor Bloody Dishwasher).
Sunday night we ate at Les Artistes, just down the road from here in front of the Hotel d’Europe. We ate in the square and very pleasant it was too, with a decent menu for EUR15. Snails, chicken in wild mushroom sauce, good ice cream and wine at EUR6 a pichet – pretty decent for the centre of Avignon.
OK, Delphine only got two filets of rouget for her main course, but then rouget isn’t cheap compared to chicken, so I got a large portion. Nice cocktails too, once we persuaded the waitres that, yes yes you do have cocktails here, we’ve had them before, they’re on the ice cream menu.
Lots of shopping yesterday, groceries at Lidl (I love shopping there, you fill your trolley and get a bill for EUR21 at the end of it all. Bargain), lotsa makeup and stuff at Yves Rocher (not for me, I’m afraid, I took the opportunity to listen to all the CDs on trial at Virgin next door. Bad customer that I am I noted down all the good ones and will buy them from allofmp3.com.
Recent discovery: The Blind Boys of Alabama, aka the Alabama Blind Boys. Really cool gospel blues; OK, the lyrics, as we say in French, are nul – but boy, those boys can’t half sing. Strong work, chaps.

‘Nuff diving

Diving because plongeur = diver AND washer-up in French. ‘Nuff because it’s an amusing pun, not because I’ve had enough of it. Quite the opposite, in fact.
Last night was fun; six tables, about 25 covers and we’re halfway through serving the starters at 2030. I’ve just finished cleaning up the batterie of saucepans and whatnot from the prep and have half-drained my pots ‘n’ pans sink when the power goes off. I re-plug the sink and wander into the kitchen, where Chef is checking the fuses. I check my fuse box in the Plonge and it’s not us, so I go up the drive and look up and down the street. The traffic lights aren’t working, so it isn’t just us. In fact, it later turned out that about a million people throughout Provence had their electricity cut off because of a forest fire.
I collect my bike lamp and back in the kitchen we’re working by emergency exit lamps and candles, and continue to do so until 2200. At about 2130 Chef comes to tell me that the emergency puit, the well-water supply has failed so that quarter sink of muddy brown water I’ve been using for the past hour is all there is. I use a sieve to strain out the big bits every now and then, and the Plonge gradually fills up with plates and saucepans.
But the service goes well and several extra customers arrive when they work out that (a) they can’t cook themselves because they’re on all-electric deals, and (b) the restaurant down the road (us) cooks with gas so will have hot food. We light the restaurant with candles and it’s very romantic for the customers. The Patissiers even find an old silver candelabra to light their workspace. I work by the light of my bike lamp.
Then at 10pm the ‘leccy comes back on, and I push everything I’ve stacked up through the dishwasher. I’d just been discussing with Chef whether to come back in the morning or afternoon tomorrow, assuming the power ever comes back on again and this isn’t just the end of the world – not a prospect I was relishing (coming back tomorrow, my half-day off, not the end of the world).
Chef sends me a stagaire to carry stuff back out into the kitchen, a very needed helper considering I have three hours worth of washing up to do in one hour. This particular stagaire is stupid even by stagaire standards; finding nothing to do during the power cut, he literally stood in a corner of the room next to the plonge, wedged between the wine fridges, for 45 minutes without moving. Weird.
He also thinks that the best way to clear the trays that hold the plates I put into the machine is bit by bit; I fiercely tell him to clear one tray at a time and then give it back to me so I can put more stuff into the machine, and he takes this advice badly – as he always does. I’ve tried telling him before that now he’s in the kitchen he has to work by kitchen rules, but he doesn’t believe me; he assumes he’s due the same respect and so on that he got in his former life (he’s 38 and a former accountant for the Epargne, the big French savings bank). He refuses to believe that, in the kitchen, he’s less than nothing and even I, the Plongeur, out-rank him. The other night he refused to believe this so much that he shouted at me in my own Plonge that I had no right to tell him to take stuff out with him and put it back on the shelves if he didn’t feel like it, he didn’t see why he had to do things like that if he didn’t want to. This allowed me to shout back at him and wag my finger in his face, as well as using lots of French and English swear words. He didn’t speak to me for two days after this, which was a blessed relief – he only knows how to talk crap.
Anyway. Then the Patissier came along to help, too, having finished the puddings (and bringing me a nice plate of strawberries and almond ice-cream too, which was nice of him) so things really sped along.
In the end we were out of the building by 2330, about the same time we’d have finished normally. I just hope the finance director doesn’t hear that we managed to do most of a service without water or electricity – he’ll want us to do it like that every night.

Big night

98 covers last night for our ‘Soirée champagne’ – six courses starting with carpaccio de St Jacques and finishing with moelleux de chocolat. We’ve been doing the prep for this for two or three days and it all went well, but I didn’t get out of the joint until gone half-past one this morning; the waitrons were still there when I turned out the light in the plonge, poor things.
I often wonder what waiters think, in the same way you wonder what your dog is thinking. I reckon it goes something like this: “Hmm, where’s my arse gone? I’ll have a quick look with my left hand….nope, nothing. I know, I’ll try my right hand…nope. Ah, I know! (light bulb pops up over head) – I’ll search for my arse with BOTH hands…nope, still nothing.”
Not that I’m trying to disparage waiters, you understand. They do a good enough job themselves. Like, “Scrape the plates into the bin before you give them to me.” Last night I kept a 2.5 litre ice cream carton handy to dredge the bits of food and salad leaves and slices of bread out of my sink – just the ‘morceaux’ they’d left on the plates. How can you think you’ve scraped and stacked a plate when there’s a half-inch gap in the middle where it’s still covered with cheese, bread and mâche?
Luckily for me I had a stagaire assigned to plate removal duty; washing 600 plates is hard enough, but carrying them all back out into the kitchen as well would be impossible. And, for once, after a few kickings and repeated explanations (that’s right, dry them AFTER they’ve been through the dishwasher…) he did OK.
And luckily for me the Seconde de Cuisine and the Chef de Partie (entrées) came and helped dry the cutlery; 1,200 knives, forks and spoons take a LONG time to wash and even longer to dry.

Off out

We’re going to somewhere called Sanary for a bit flower expo today, somewhere the other side of Toulon. Which I remember well as the first place I ever had a fondue bourguignone at the home of the sister of the best friend of my Niçoise penfriend Brigitte, to whom I haven’t spoken in far too long. Must dig out her e-mail address.
We had a soirée vigneron last night when the good and great give us all their money and we let them taste some great local wines. About 50 of them, who all had amuse bouches, starters (two plates), main course (two plates), cheese and pudding (a plate and a soufflée dish, chef doing his special raspberry soufflées for pudding). Which means 50 x 8 = 400 plates plus all the batterie, the saucepans and what have you to assemble all this. Busy night for me. I was reading a restaurant review the other day where I was invited to have pity on the poor plongeurs who between the three of them have to do up to 600 plates a night. Slackers.
The thing which takes most of my time is taking the cleaned pots and plates back out into the kitchen, especially difficult when the five cooks are working an assembly line to plate up those 50 dinners and you can’t get by them, but have to because there’s simply no room anywhere in the plonge for the next load of stuff that’s about to arrive. Luckily chef and his seconde and the new chef de partie are all professional enough to take an armful of stuff out with them when they pass by, which helps a lot.
The stagaires don’t, of course. We have a new one who Knows Everything – he explained his recipe which he’d invented by himself and which was his recipe and he had designed it all by himself and which was his recipe (etc…) for a dish which involves slicing a choux bun in half, sandwiching in a boule of glace vanille, putting it on a plate decorated with a little crème anglaise, adding a few more buns and then covering it with hot chocolate.
The silence which followed the announcement of this Great New Recipe was broken by Chef saying, “So, profiteroles then?”
And then he insisted on speaking English to me all night. Very, very bad English, presumably on the grounds that my French is so appalling only everyone else in the restaurant can understand it. So when someone arrives in the plonge with a hot saucepan they normally cry, “Chaud!” to warn me it’s hot. This one arrived shouting, “Cold!” I thought he was trying to make a joke, but it turned out he thought “Cold!” means “Hot”. He has an English exam on Wednesday, apparently, and offered me €100 to sit it for him…
Anyway. So I finished just before midnight, which was pretty impressive even if I say so myself; the last soirée vigneron saw me getting out of the building at 0130, which was far too late. And chef insisted I eat two of his soufflées which were, frankly, delicious. Choose them if they’re on the menu.

Second in a series…

Good grief, two days in a row. You can tell I’ve got lots of other really important stuff to do, can’t you?
Like, writing something for Wendy. I write a fortnightly column for a website she manages and this time she wants me to work in more fist-fights (over fish) and less recipes. She would have made a good newspaper editor…
Mondays are Dustbin Days, the days when I drag our five (OK, four today – the Seconde forgot to take the one outside the office outside onto the street to be emptied last night) giant containers, as they call them in France, round to the car park at the back of the hotel and scrub them clean. With a fire hose and a plastic-bristled brush and a special produit which costs EUR35 a gallon. Good grief, for that money I could get 20 litres of the Mas Montel red I picked up in Sommières last weekend.
I was going to do the copper saucepans too, but there wasn’t time – I peeled five kilos of carrots, then five kilos of onions, then a kilo of garlic instead. Which, on balance, is much more fun so I’m glad I did.
I think one of the waitron stagaires is trying to become my friend. He keeps joking about the clients and slipping little bon mots into his conversations with me. I just pretend I don’t understand and keep scrubbing, it’s not the done thing to fraternise with these sorts you know.
This is an interesting journal, written by a chap who gave up his office job and became a chef at the age of 30; youngster.
And it’s interesting that his top piece of advice is to get a proper job in a restaurant before going to school, advice with which I have to wholeheartedly agree. Even working at La Grange de Labahou a year ago, while useful, didn’t teach me just how hard it is doing this day in, day out because it’s how you earn your living.