List of posts

  • Ingredients1kg peas100g lettuce100g spring onions200g lardons or diced baconButterSugarSaltMethodIn the same way that a l’anglaise means cooking whatever in boiling, salted water, cooking something a la française means adding bacon bits, specifically lardons.Now, French people believe, incorrectly, that lardons straight out of the packet are already cooked and that there’s no need for any further…

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  • Recipe: How to cook

    OK, hands in the air, this isn’t really it’s a recipe. It’s how to cook any recipe from any cook book. Anything.Well, most of them anyway.Look. I was a terrible cook who thought I was OK, but I wasn’t. You may be a great cook, I don’t know, but most people aren’t and know it.…

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  • Ingredients4 egg yolks25ml cold water250g butterJuice of half a lemonSaltCayenne pepperMethodHollandaise, as I learned at school, is a sauce émulsionnée instable chaude – an unstable hot emulsified sauce. Which means, basically, whisk it lots and eat it quick.So, cut your butter into small chunks and clarify it in a bain marie if you’re a wuss,…

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  • Ingredients100g shallots500g confit tomatoes2-3 garlic bulbs250 ml veal stock (optional)SaltHerbes de ProvenceOlive oilA few pinches of sugar (optional)MethodThis is nothing like a meat fondue where you dip chunks of meat into boiling oil; nor is it a sauce tomato, one of Escoffier’s five Sauces meres, mother sauces.It’s more like a tomato jam which you can…

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  • Ingredients250ml fish stockSplash of Noilly Prat200ml thick cream100g unsalted butterMethodThis is a good example of where your preparation and mise en place come into their own. Having previously made your fumet de poisson, fish stock – see Chapter 6’s recipe – you simply reduce some of it down and then thicken it with cream and/or…

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  • Recipe: Fish stock

    Unlike veal or beef stock, fish stock needs hardly any cooking. Even less than chicken stock in fact, and that only takes an hour.Ingredients600 grammes fish bones – flat fish are great (sole, turbot), also cod, halibut, that sort of thing. Don’t use bones from oily fish like salmon or mackerel – they make oily…

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  • I’ve been marvelling at myself recently, marvelling at the skills I have now that I simply didn’t have years ago. Last night, for example, I sliced up some home-smoked salmon with which to make some smoked salmon and dill-cream lasagnes (long story about how I got to the point of making salmon lasagne in the…

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  • Epilogue: Afterwards

    After passing my exam I carried on working at Les Agassins until the season ended in October, and then went on to become Chef de Cuisine (and plongeur, sous-chef, restaurant manager, sommelier and commis de rang) at Chalet Bertie for the winter season in Morzine. This was the year when there was almost no snow…

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  • One more cover

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  • My new cover idea

      I think I prefer the first one here, with the washing up. Although the onion picture is nicer.The problem right now is that pictures are expensive, so this is the best I can get for free right now.

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