Ensconced…

My kitchen - bar on the left, kitchen at the back. Yes, it really is as small as it looks

My kitchen - bar on the left, kitchen at the back, hole in the floor on the right down to the cellar where my cold room hides - closed during service so make sure you've got everything to hand!. Yes, it really is as small as it looks

…as Chef de Cuisine (OK, I only have a commis and half a plongeur but hey, what’s in a name?) at À Côté in the Place aux Herbes in Uzes. It’s called À Côté because it’s next door to l’Oustal, the first restaurant owned by À Côté’s proprietaires.
We do three salad/starter plates (soon to be four), Côté Sud, Fraîcheur and Mer (coquette coming soon! with chicken!) which feature Provençal-type stuff (grilled peppers, Jean-Remy’s famous Trilogies, meatballs, rice, that sort of thing; tzatziki, pea velouté, herb-stuffed chicken; mussels, rouget, brandade, prawns, respectively; ribs of beef and veal served on tableside charcoal grills; pierrades, hot stones on which you cook your own beef/veal/duck breast/seafood/marinated chicken; and a couple of fish dishes including, Real Soon Now, rougets au Pastis.
It’s hard work and a real challenge to keep on top of recipes, stocks, ordering, service and cooking, but we’re getting some very nice comments back from those who eat in the restaurant, which is fantastic.

We have room for a couple of tables and a few barstools inside, at the very most, so our customers sit under the arches or out in the town square

We have room for a couple of tables and a few barstools inside, at the very most, so our customers sit under the arches or out in the town square

Everything is home-made, including the tomato sauce in the ratatouille – vegetable of the day right now. Days have been variable with between 4 and 50 customers per service, but we’re a new restaurant right next door to one of the best-known and longest-established eateries in town so it’s going to take a while to get things going properly.

Come and eat; it’s all good, not expensive and you’ll get a bilingual welcome.

Lessons learned

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2008 was a real roller coaster of a year. It started going downhill after a hoped-for cool job in Ireland with A Famous Celebrity fell through when he and especially his wife turned out to be complete and utter lying tossers. Lesson learned.
The year went back uphill with the proposition of working back in Ireland for a member of the country’s richest family – and downhill six weeks into the job when it turned out that he didn’t intend to actually pay me any wages.
We were still going uphill with the birth of Scarlett on May 1 and were literally three days from moving house to Ireland, all three of us, when the wages bombshell dropped. Scarlett was a month old and we were in the throes of packing up the house in France to go spend a month in Ireland and then move over lock, stock and barrel when I learned – accidentally – that my erstwhile employer had no intention of paying me any wages while he was away from home. And since he spends six months a year abroad for tax purposes, my salary started looking very paltry.
Coupled with the fact that Ireland had really disappointed me as a country, this was a real downer. We were prepared to accept the country’s third-world health care – it costs €70 to visit a doctor, non-reimbursable, and you pay for children as for adults – and being out in the wilds of nowhere because, firstly, I actually loved the job; cooking for the old man was a joy, he was a real pleasure to work for personally. Unfortunately those with whom he chose to surround himself were wankers of the first order, bent on destroying me quite possibly because they saw me as ‘competition’ for his favours. And secondly, the offered salary would have allowed us to save up enough money to return to France in a few years and establish our own business. Well, wages are easy to promise but harder to pay, so that one stopped dead there.
It dragged on, of course. I had to return to Ireland to collect my belongings, fortunately when there was no one in the house. I had 75 kilos of luggage, all my cooking equipment and books; when traveling over my employer had paid the excess baggage charge but there was no way I could afford that myself, so I had to get a ferry from Dublin to Hollyhead and then a train across Wales and England to London and then up to my parents’ house near Bedford. There I left most of my belongings and brought the rest home on Easyjet – 20 kilos in the hold and who knows how much stuffed into my carry-on rucksack. A real nightmare 48 hours which all but did me in, both emotionally and physically. We had really invested in the idea of moving to Ireland, even being prepared to take our one-month-old daughter there to live, only to have the idea destroyed by a lying tart. Still, lesson learned – never, ever, ever go anywhere to work without a signed contract specifying everything you want. Old men make promises their staff have no intentions of keeping.
I quickly found a job in a restaurant in Avignon which was fine, a post as Chef de Partie in a gastronomic restaurant 10 minutes by pushbike from the flat. The salary was Enough and the work interesting, although some of the characters working there were jaw-droppingly weird. The Second who managed to get fired after serving rotting fish to one of the place’s favourite clients and sending off a sample to the analysis laboratory that was, literally, full of his own shit (permitted level of the bacteria you leave on food after not washing your hands following a bathroom break: 500; actual level of shitty bacteria in sample: 30,000); the cook who was a ‘mythoman’, as the French call them, a Walter Mitty character who had, variously, a dead daughter or a daughter who was studying to be a doctor; a daughter so poorly she was helicoptered to a brain specialist in Marseilles or who was doing well at school; a collection of vintage Ferraris and Bugattis or who drove a broken-down old Alfa Romeo. Then there were the control freak managers who wanted one, not two, slices of toast served with the foie gras and the portions of salad accompanying starters to be weighed, and who refused to replace the flood-damaged and filthy kitchen floor six years after it was ruined; waiters who spent, literally, hours chatting up female customers and shagging them instead of serving food. A chef who gave me a final, written warning (with, naturally, no preceding warnings at all) when he found one spot of tomato juice on a wall in a part of the building I’d never worked in. It goes on. All restaurants are special, but this one was Special. That place was a roller coaster ride all on its own, a funfair of excitement and disappointment on the Montagne Russe, as the French call them, that was our 2008. Lesson learned: everyone who works in, and especially who runs, restaurants is Mad with a capital Flibble.
On the up again. We got married in August, a truly splendid weekend of fun and partying with many of our favourite people traveling from all over France and the UK to have a good time with us. It makes you want to get married more often just so you can see them, really one of the favourite weekends of my whole life. And especially getting to work with the marvellous Steve and Caroline preparing Sunday lunch: thank you chaps, without you none of that would have been possible, I love you dearly. Lesson learned: Friends are great, cherish them.
My contract finished at the restaurant in October and things were fine for a while. The Irish Problem had been dragging on all through the summer, with them refusing point blank to pay me the wages they owed me. It was only a couple of thousand euros, but they would have none of it. So I was forced to take them to the Prud’Hommes, the Industrial Tribunal, the Commissioners as they’re called over there. The money would have been nice but the real problem, it turned out, was that they hadn’t given me an end-of-contract bit of paper I needed to be able to claim unemployment benefit in France. Well, they hadn’t ever given me a contract either, but the e-o-c one stopped me getting any unemployment benefit money at all from the start of November until it finally arrived in February, which made for a very, very difficult three and a half months for us. The Irish turd who had fucked everything up, the old man’s secretary, had apparently had my contract on her desk all the time – well, that’s what Sources Close To… told me, sources who had no reason to lie. Why she simply didn’t give it to me I can only guess, not know. Lesson learned: trust no one.
So I had to travel back to Ireland – four flights and a car hire, thank you – to attend the Commissioner’s Hearing in a town just down the road from the old man’s castle. The Commissioner, a retired judge, listened to my story and then started on their version. They had the Lying Secretary, The Lawyer and The Barrister in attendance; the Barrister had prepared a two-inch-thick brief which the Commissioner didn’t open. Their version of what happened was incredible, a real work of fantasy, but still. I listened patiently until The Commissioner stopped them, half an hour in, and asked them to leave the room. “This will go on all day today and probably tomorrow, if the size of this brief is anything to go by,” she said. “And they’re going to lose. How about I propose to them that they give you €2,500, they can beat it down to the €2,000 you want and we can all get home for lunch?” Fine by me, but it took another half an hour to persuade Them.
So they got off with a small fine for not having given me a contract in the first place and the €2,000 I wanted all along. Plus, and I’m guessing here, probably €10,000 in lawyer and barrister costs. I liked the old man and he deserves better advisors than this, and I’m sorry he ended up losing a chef he liked. No one won this one, although I lost less than the others. Lesson learned: get it in writing no matter how sincere the promises.
The Commissioner hearing was in late November and we spent two weeks over Christmas in England with my parents, a marvellous time for them and Scarlett who adored all the attention they gave her. It’s a real joy seeing the pleasure they give to each other, this was a real Up after the Downer that Ireland had been for me, but our money worries were mounting and becoming a real problem.
When I’d taken the P45 the Irish finally sent me into the French Unemployment office, they waved it away: P45? Here we want an E301, Monsieur. Now, an E301 is a P45 with the ‘P45’ name scratched out and ‘E301′ written over the top, but that doesn’t matter. The Former Employer should have furnished me with the E301 but, obviously, that wasn’t going to happen now, so a lot of research turned up another form to fill in and send to Ireland to turn a P45 into an E301. And that didn’t arrive until mid-February.
I gave the form to the French unemployment wonks and they promptly decided to pay me half the benefit they should have done, so another 10 days passed while they fixed that one, and we finally got some money – but only after incurring I Really Don’t Want To Know How Much in bank overdraft charges and interest. Essentially all the Irish settlement money. Lesson learned: Don’t work for the Irish, don’t trust anyone, check the bits of paper you need in advance, be nice to the French bureaucrats, have an understanding bank manager.
And of course, all this time I’ve been applying for jobs. At the end of last season no one was hiring as the economic crisis started. Then, as detailed in my last post, I applied for a couple of hundred jobs between January and now and had a really bad time of all that. I was offered and accepted a job just down the road from Delphine’s parents’ home in the Gard, but an innocent e-mail from me to the employer turned out to be a threat to drag her off to the Prud’Hommes/Industrial tribunal and she refused to hire me. Lesson learned: sort out everything before you’re hired. I thought I was just confirming something already promised, but in fact I uncovered a thin tissue of lies about wages and conditions and am glad I did – I’d have finished working 6 days a week for 3 days’ worth of wages.
It has been an extremely difficult 18 months, starting back in October 2007 when we first thought we’d be moving to Ireland to work for The Famous Irish Celebrity. People, it turns out, are simply not as nice as me. They lie. They cheat. And they smile while doing it. We’ve had some terrible moments and some fantastic moments and are now hoping, sincerely, that the next 18 months will be a lot smoother and easier. We’ll see, and hope for the best. I’m lucky that Delphine has been so understanding and supportive through all of this, I really couldn’t have coped without her or with a lesser woman, so thank you very much Chérie, mon amour, sans toi je serai rien. Lesson learned: marry a good woman.
Now I’m off to Uzes to work in a new restaurant. There’s a trial period of 14 days and, if it works out, we’ll be moving over there. But it’s all in writing now, we’re not buying plane tickets or house hunting until it’s certain, and there are back-up options waiting in the wings Just In Case.
Lessons learned.

Week 21: ‘Murican style

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Delphine drives me to school this morning. I’m not up to cycling at the moment, so she drops me off on her way to work and I’ll get the bus home this evening.
I apologise to Chef for missing last week and he checks to make sure I’ve been given the recipes they worked on while I was away. I’ve already copied them from Mr Whippy – Pascal, the guy who shares my workstation and who can whip anything into a better froth than I can. Including, obviously, the genoise they made last week. Chef moves on. I can’t tell if he’s mad at me for not coming last week or disinterested – he doesn’t seem impressed at my tales of the doctor wanting to cart me off to hospital. Clearly, unless you’ve lost entire limbs, preferably more than one at once, you should come to work. Not being able to work out which way is ‘up’ is no excuse at all.
So today we’re doing ‘Poulet à l’americaine’ and, like so many things given foreign names by the French, it bears little resemblance to anything Americans might do to a chicken. Well, that’s not true – essentially American-style chicken in this case means quartered and grilled with a tomato sauce, but Americans aren’t the only ones to treat chooks thusly. Mind you, Americans get away lightly – just about the only food the French have named after the English is crème anglaise which is really nothing like custard at all (no powdered eggs, for example). Everything else à l’anglaise is really quite rude – try checking out ‘J’ai les anglais qui arrivent’ or ‘Filer à l’anglais’ if you have a strong stomach.
American chicken starts, as do all good French recipes, with some good stock; chicken, in this case, or ‘fond brun de poulet’, chicken stock made with roasted bones. At the restaurant we make our own but, since we don’t have enough time at school, we use the powdered stuff. Add in a little tomato concentrate, carrots and onion and we’re good to go.
Well, good to start going. You take this sauce, reduce it down and then ‘diablé’, devil it by adding chopped shallots, white wine, white wine vinegar and ‘poivre mignonette’ which, literally translated, means ‘cute little pepper’ but in practise means cracked black pepper. ‘Diablé’ because anything vaguely hot in French gets a wicked name – the French simply cannot cope with hot, spicy food and need to give it a name that says ‘Warning! Warning! Danger!’
Wimps.
So then we actually get down to grilling the chicken, first scrubbing the hot grills (cast iron plates that sit over a couple of gas burners) and then, well, grilling the chicken on them after seasoning and oiling the meat. This makes pleasingly large flames to frighten the girls, which is always fun.
We grill a few tomatoes and mushrooms too, and finish the whole lot off in the oven. Which sounds like a simple idea but is something that had simply never occurred to me to do before I started cooking professionally. Grilling things on hot pans gives them a nicely coloured exterior (Maillard reactions! Look it up!) but then goes on to burn the meat if you leave them on the hot gas. You can turn down the gas and keep turning the meat repeatedly, but it’s simpler to whack the whole thing into the oven and let it finish off there at a lower temperature, cooking the inside through without burning the outside. Good tip there, food lovers.
Midday today and I eat a quick lunch to give me time to copy up notes from last week’s classes – the people involved in the justice system (judges, lawyers, bailiffs and so on), plus ‘La fiche de stock’, stock sheets which is how you’re supposed to keep track of what’s in the pantry by checking stuff in and out. I’ve never worked in a big enough kitchen to warrant using such a thing – they’re all small enough to stand in the pantry or cold room and say, ‘Hmm, need some more flour and aubergines I see.’ Much less complicated than the enormous sheets Chef has handed out where you need a minor degree in accounting just to work out how much olive oil you have and whether you should order some more. Yet another thing that, if you need to have it, would be easier to do on a computer but all the French restaurants I’ve seen bar one have used exactly no computers at all. And that one used wireless handsets to take orders which were then printed out and passed around the kitchen.
Then on into a Hygiene class where we learn more about bacteria, including the fact that it takes just two hours for them to multiply in whatever food you leave lying around to reach critical mass, the point where they gain sentience, rise up from your work surface and suffocate you in a glooping mass of grey goo. Well, I exaggerate slightly for effect but that’s the general idea. It seems obvious to me that some things will go off more quickly than that while other things can be left out for a lot longer than two hours, but again for the purposes of passing this exam the limit is two hours. We also learn about ‘sporification’, whereby the spores of bacteria can survive even boiling and that the only way to kill them so they can’t hatch into new, baby bacteria and fill your life with grey goo is to sterilise them at temperatures over 140 degrees Centigrade.
And then you can re-contaminate stuff by, say, letting beetles crawl over it when you leave it uncovered sitting on a windowsill. Good grief. All fine stuff but it doesn’t take an hour for a grown adult to understand it.
See the picture here for some idea of what I do for the next 50 minutes after I’ve grasped the meaning of this week’s lesson (which, don’t forget, is being given in French so I have to translate it first before I can understand it. The text at the top is my notes on bacteria. ‘Aglandau’ and ‘abeulau’ refer to two different types of olives from which olive oil is made – David and I were having a discussion about the merits of each instead of paying attention to teacher. ‘Beur-ger King’ is the name of a new, Arabic chain of burger bars recently launched in Paris, ‘Beur’ being an Arab word. The sums are me working out my wages and tax owed thereupon. The drawing bit is me doodling.).
We do Quiche Lorraine this afternoon. The quiche is fine, any fule can fill a pastry case with flan, vegetables and bits of bacon. Bacon, of course, is counted as a vegetable in France so Quiche Lorraine is a vegetarian dish over here. I jest not; I’ve since worked for a couple of weeks in a restaurant where the ‘vegetable of the day’ was regularly ‘flan aux lardons’, flan with bacon bits in it. When I explain that, of all the ingredients – milk, eggs, bacon – none come from the food group known to the rest of the world as ‘vegetables’, I’m told ‘There’s salt in it!’. Well, salt isn’t a vegetable either. But flans are, apparently, so Shut Up.
Back home on the bus. Bus routes are the same all over the world – this is my first trip on a bus in Avignon and its route planners have followed the rules used by bus route planners everywhere: check departure point, check arrival point, draw straight line between two, then visit every other place you can think of within three kilometres of that line so the journey takes an hour instead of 10 minutes. And above all when you’re within 500 metres of the arrival point make sure you take an extra detour so as to frustrate passengers to the maximum.
And then back to bed. Standing up all day from 8 am to 6 pm has done me in.

Visiting, not kissing, cousins

Visiting (not kissing) cousins

No kissing before the age of 27. At least. Scarlett has been warned and seems to have taken my orders on board – she spent a lot of time screaming at Rémi last weekend when we visited Delphine’s cousin Julie and her partner Laurent at her (Julie’s) mother’s house in Sauve.

Rémis is now six months old and twice the size of Scarlett, poor thing; no wonder she’s terrified of the big bruiser.

We were over in Sauve to meet various family members and see our Pasteur/Pasteuse/Pastrice – lady vicar who will be officiating at the imaginary-friend portion of our nuptials this summer (August 23, you’re all invited). We’re supposed to be choosing hymns and texts for the service, and some will be in English and others in French. I’ve chosen the great protest song Jerusalem as the English hymn and a text from Winnie the Pooh