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31 Monday May 2010

Posted by chriswardpress in Cooking

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So I wrote: Just baked the first Camembert de Printemps, the first Camembert of the year made with the milk of cows turned out to pasture for the first time since the winter up in the frozen north of France – very tasty. Rub with a cut clove of garlic, drizzle with whatever white/rosé you have lying around, bake in its wooden box for +- 15 minutes, dip your soldiers in it, nice supper.

…and then I realised I write more about food to my chum Eric in Atlanta than I do to everyone else, so here’s what I added to the last post for his benefit: Soldiers! They call them mouillettes ‘little soakers’ here; actually chunks of home-made sunflower seed bread with some AOC butter on them from Poitou-Charentes (there are only 2 AOC butters, the other’s beurre d’Isigny but it’s not as good). Crudités, raw veg is good too but I’m not on a health kick tonight. Drinking rosé from just up the road, Costieres de Nimes, €1.79 a bottle – yeah, we splashed out a little on the expensive stuff. Wednesday we’re going to the olive oil co-operative to taste last year’s harvest, wanna join us? We’re already eating the ones we picked from our tree that I cured over the winter, I’ll send you some if you like!

I’ve been making strawberry jam – too sweet  – and yoghurt – the secret’s in the straining! – too. And baking cookies and madeleines, wild mushroom sauce for Mother’s Day magrets, rice pudding, olive oil ice cream and sauce vigneron with the bavettes too.

Yeah, I’ve regained my taste for cooking I think.

No resolution

10 Sunday Jan 2010

Posted by chriswardpress in Cooking, Restauranting, Scarlett, Stuff

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I keep promising both myself and a bunch of more important people to write to them, get back to them, post something here, reply to that e-mail…you get the idea. I don’t write nearly as much as I’d like to these days. In fact that’s an exaggeration, I often don’t write a single word from one week to the next; days fly by, weeks zip along nearly as fast and then it’s next year.

I still remember very clearly looking forward to the year 2000 with trepidation because I’ll be 40 that year. This year I’m 50 for doG’s sake. Eff me. Please. Talk about living in the future, I just don’t understand why my car doesn’t fly and I’m not holidaying on the moon.

Still. 2009 was an interesting year; started with me having quit a job I didn’t really like that much back at the end of 2008 and start looking for one which would bring us closer to Sauve and Delphine’s family, with us coming back to Avignon after a fantastic Christmas in England with my family where Scarlett delighted us all by almost walking properly.

She did start walking properly this year, of course, that is what children her age do. There’s a bunch – OK, over a thousand – new photos lurking between the digital camera (how long will we go on saying ‘Digital Cameras’ instead of just ‘Cameras’?), this computer, Delphine’s computer and flickr. They will onwardly progress soon.

As I did in the end, finding a job, eventually and after a number of promising but false starts, in Lunel. Second de Cuisine. Full time. And it allows us to live in Sommières which is one of the most beautiful towns in Languedoc. But. Well, this is what I wrote recently to someone I like:

So the new house is great, albeit expensive to heat – oil boiler has
just received its second 1,000 litre delivery which we hope will last
the winter. November/December was especially cold for here, down to
minus 10 some nights. The decor isn’t to our tastes, a bit ‘Clown
escaped from the circus turned decorator’ for my tastes but you can’t
have everything. We have good landlords who are doing all the little
jobs at their expense that normally I’d expect to have to do like
painting shutters and so on.

We have a great garden, not too big or small, room for a small
vegetable patch and we have several herb bushes already – rosemary,
lavendar and so on. And an olive tree – the olives are soaking right
now.

Scarlett is great, always curious and interested in everything, and
learning more words every day. Delphine is well but tired, new baby is
due end of July/beginning of August. She’s currently going through the
very complicated official re-education program to find a new
profession as her carpal tunnel problems mean she can’t cut flowers or
carry buckets of water any more to be a florist.

Work is very successful for me; Chef and I had a moment or two back in
October when we didn’t get on and I think we both wanted out – he was
having a hard time converting from Second to Chef and took it out on
me. He went on holiday for a week which went fine, but when he came
back he picked up one small problem (a friend of his claimed his duck
was overcooked although he’d said nothing at the time of his meal) and
blew it up into the end of the world. Now he’s fine, he’s just had 10
days off without any problems while he was away and he seems happy as
he’s been confirmed in the job.

Me, I like the work well enough and am lucky that we have Saturday
mornings and all Sunday off – except when, like this weekend, we have
to work Sunday which means we all only have half days off this week.
Can’t have everything of course.

But honestly the hours are getting me down, particularly having to
work evenings and spend so little time with Scarlett and Delphine;
every job I’ve done before has been for a limited period, albeit of up
to 9 months. As this is a permanent contract   there is no end, and
French law requires me to work a year before I can take any holiday. 3
days off last weekend is my longest break before next June.

So I’m seriously thinking about alternatives; a move to a traiteur or
a collective kitchen in a school or a retirement home or similar, or
even a move away from restaurants all together; there’s currently a
recruitment drive going on for English (among other) teachers and I’ve
filled in the papers to see what happens there. But nothing hasty at
all, I’d be content to stay where I am for a couple of years or more
even. This may just be the seven-month itch.

So yeah, I may not be a cook for the rest of my life. Or even the rest of this year. I wished, at the end of last year, for this year to be completely unexciting; that ain’t gonna happen, none of my years are ever uninteresting it seems. There’s already going to be a new baby in August and perhaps a new job now too; we’ll see.

We went for a great long walk this afternoon, through town and out along the Voie Verte, the old railway line which has been tarmaced over and turned into a decent walk from here 19 kms towards Nimes, and we really enjoyed it. We’re just starting to get to know Sommières – previously, like most people, we knew the Saturday market and that was it. Now we’re meeting, slowly, some of the people and finding the interesting corners. We do miss Avignon a lot but, as Delphine remarked this afternoon, people here say ‘Bonjour’ as you pass them in the street which they didn’t do in the big city.

And it’s great that we don’t really have any worries or major problems; yeah, more money would be nice and the washing machine appears to have given up on us after four years, but they’re not really problems. We’re all well and very happy and, as the cliché goes, that’s what counts.

Me, I haven’t been this happy in a long time, if ever. Certainly it’s the happiest I’ve been since moving to France, probably the happiest since the early ’90s, which is a long time even when you’re fast approaching 50.

So, how are you all? If we’ve lost touch, which we obviously have, I’m sorry. Email works two ways, even if it’s sometimes not evident from my lack of replies, for which I’m again sorry.

Cheers.

The new job

26 Sunday Jul 2009

Posted by chriswardpress in Cooking, Restauranting

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I started on June 8 as Second de Cuisine (Sous Chef in some parlances but that’s not the same thing in French) at the Karousel restaurant of the Kyriad hotel in Lunel, over in the Hérault department.
It is not a gastronomic restaurant like those I’ve worked in previously; in France it’s what is known as semi-gastronomique. It means it’s a bit cheaper – our menu of the day is €14, €17 with coffee and wine. We do three weekly ‘suggestions’, two starters and a main; this week it’s a salad of confit de canard marinated in a blackcurrant and raspberry vinaigrette, a ‘terre et mer’ special with our home-made foie gras and smoked salmon, and breast of duck with honey and pain d’epice sauce.
We have an interesting à la carte menu, you can read the English version here and the French version here.
It’s a businessman’s hotel; we’re full during the week with many commercial travellers staying overnight – we do a special deal for a room and half-board/demi-pension and we sell a lot of menus of the day to them. We also cater for quite a few groups of 10 – 30 in our conference rooms, feeding them the menu of the day too. Weekends are quite busy with tourists at the moment, although that calms down at the end of next month. At the moment we close Saturday and Sunday mornings; when the tourists have gone home we’ll close Sunday night too. I’ll have one Saturday in three off, the first time ever I’ve had such a schedule – Saturday nights off!
We do anything from 30 to 100 covers per service which is quite exciting when there are only two of us working. Normally there are three of us in the kitchen but our Commis, Jean-Claude, had a heart attack 10 days after I started. He came back for a week and is off again for at least another month. Right now Robert, the apprentice-stagiare who was working when I arrived is filling in for him but he’s off back to school (and a stage in England) at the beginning of September. So that could be fun; Chef Alex and I did two and a half weeks on our own before Robert came back with just two half days off a week and we’re both knackered. He’s got the weekend off now, I’ve got next weekend for a big family (Delphine’s family) wedding.
I work the starters and pudding stations normally when Alex does the hot dishes and replace him doing hot mains when he’s on his days off – like this weekend. Our hours are very reasonable too, starting at 9 and finishing, normally, at 2, then from 6 to 10 in the evenings. We’re very strict about taking last orders by 1.30 and 9.30 – not like other restaurants where you’re paid for 39 hours and expected to work 60 or more without complaining. The owners here understand about unpaid overtime and, whilst occasionally, we end up doing an hour here or there we also get to leave by 9.30 on quiet nights – like I did last night.
We’re very, very happy with this job; it’s not the great gastronomic cooking I’ve done before but it’s decent, honest stuff and another learning experience. And frankly it’s been almost two years since I took the job with the Dancing Irish Wanker and, since then, we’ve been permanently waiting for The Telephone Call that will decide our futures and allow us to settle into a proper home. That waiting has driven us both nuts, being at the beck and call of people who, frankly, could care less about me and my family. Half a dozen times I’ve been offered jobs, only to have them pulled from under me at the last minute – or even after the last minute.
So that’s all behind us. We’re looking for a house around Sommières now – let me know if you hear of anything with three bedrooms and a garden – and are looking forward to a few calm and settled years living a normal, boring life. Life will be a bit tricky for the next couple of months since it would cost us about €20 a day for me to do the round trip from Avignon – double that if I came home for my afternoon nap – so I’m squatting at Delphine’s parents’ house for the time being. It’s still costing us a tenner a day in diesel as Sauve is 40 kms from Lunel, but at least there are no motorway tolls.

Come and see us, you’re all welcome.

Plus ça change…

30 Saturday May 2009

Posted by chriswardpress in Cooking, Restauranting

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I recently re-read George Orwell’s ‘Down and Out in Paris and London‘ – and then re-lived it over an eight-day week in a similar Big Hotel in a town near here. Really, all you need to do to change from Orwell’s time to modern times is to give everyone a mobile telephone and you’re there.

Contrast the glamour and smoothness of the public rooms with the clamour and heat of the staff side of the buildings; the gentle jazz music and fountains playing with the crashing and banging of the pots, pans and the chef.

Ah, the chef. Young. Talented. Completely, officially, fucking mad. Generous to a fault – literally, literally give you the shirt of his back one minute and then taking your head off the next.

“Why is your fridge arranged like a fucking bordello?”

The correct answer to this question is not, I discovered, “Because you told me to arrange it like that at lunchtime, Chef.” The correct answer is mute, stupid silence as he tears you a new one for leaving him so open and vulnerable to being closed down by the health inspectors. Silly, stupid, useless you. The second part of the correct answer is to welcome his help in cleaning up the mess as you both stay behind after evening service. Cleaning a fridge which was, natch, sparkling in the first place.

Chef has a real problem. He is, as I say, young; he is also heavily oppressed by the domineering dictator of a hotel manager who doesn’t know what he wants but, whatever you’ve done, that’s not it. All his menus and pricings and decisions have to be approved at length by the director who is too busy to see him right now, come back in an hour, two hours, tomorrow.

So Chef suffers and, in turn, so does the brigade.

It doesn’t help that Chef is certifiably nuts, taking regular doses of Xanax to calm him down. Except that the last time he saw his shrink – so he tells me himself – he got into such a huge row that the shrink called the cops to get him out of his office. And now Chef’s prescription has run out and he can’t see another shrink to get another prescription until next week, but that’s fine because there’s some tablets in here somewhere – give me a hand to look would you?

‘Here’ is his studio apartment, the one where he sleeps when he’s working. He has another flat, the same distance from the Hotel in the opposite direction, where his wife and kids live and where he lives on his days off. The studio looks like a bunch of hippie students have lived in it for a month and have just stepped out for a moment to score. It is mounded up with piles of clothes and bedding, overflowing ashtrays and scraps of paper. He generously – very generously – lets me take a nap there during our afternoon break as it’s too far for me to drive home. Offers me food, drink, his bed in return for scrabbling through the mountains of junk in search of his calming medication.

We don’t find any. Bad news for him, worse for the brigade who tell me that he’s always like this; over-the-top generous one minute, screaming in your face the next. One guy’s been there a year and is building up his private catering business to the point where it’ll support him so he can leave; the other, fresh-faced and newly arrived from the north of France a couple of months ago, is looking for a new job. There’s a third but he’s off on semi-permanent sick leave at the moment.

I’m there ‘en extra’, on a temporary job ostensibly doing a trial for the permanent job which is ostensibly being offered. It started with a single shift on Sunday lunchtime, halfway through which Chef asks me to come back that evening. So I do, hanging out in his studio that afternoon.

Then he says something about working tomorrow, and I ask if he’d like me to come back? Of course, he says, didn’t anyone say? The plot unfolds: I’m to work all this week ‘en extra’, eight-days straight as a trial for this glorious permanent job. Then the next week some other guy’s coming in to do a week, trying out for the same job. Then we both come back together for two weeks to work through the Feria, the huge bullfighting festival that takes over Nimes at the end of every May. And then they’ll decide which one of us gets the job. If it looks like the season will be busy enough to hire anyone, that is.

It’s clear to me that there’s no real job on offer, they just need capable bodies in the kitchen to cover the Feria – on Feria Friday they have a group of 950 booked in for a cocktail buffet as well as doing 200 à la carte covers at lunch and then again at dinner. Right.

So I do the week, getting more worn and beaten down as it goes on. I learn some nice touches – drying tomato and aubergine skins to use as plate decoration, grinding them and dried scallop corals to powder to use similarly. And, er, that’s probably it in fact, that’s the only idea I’ll be nicking from there.

By the second Sunday I’m done, worn out and really fed up. I have one last service to go, Sunday evening. I’ve napped back at Chef’s studio most afternoons but can’t face being with him any more, so make an excuse and spend the break wandering around town and napping on a park bench. I have half a dozen excuses invented to get me off evening service and am half a second from blurting one out when I arrive and meet Chef. But I don’t. I do the service and take the bollocking about the bordel that is my fridge, then stay after service to clean it with friendly, smiley Chef.

He wants me to come back the next day. Can’t, I say. And anyway there’s Other bloke next week, right? Well, turns out he might not be what Chef is looking for but I am. So OK, come back on Wednesday, right? I mumble something which he takes as ‘Sure, love to!’ and we part with a handshake. I have no intention whatsoever of coming back, ever, to this kitchen.

There are other ways of working, other kinds of chefs. I’ve done my time with a shouty, rude, bi-polar chef before – coincidentally also in Nimes. When you get to the point where you’re shaking with fear at the thought of going to work, it’s time to move on. I’ve learned a lot of things since I started cooking for a living five years ago, but the really important thing I’ve learned has nothing to do with kitchens. I’ve learned that, if I don’t want to do something, I don’t have to. There are compelling reasons why some things have to be done but when it comes to work, there are always alternatives. I choose not to work for assholes who may be brilliant cooks but who can’t manage without violence. I’m 48 years old now and grown up enough to make these sort of choices; it may be good for my career to work in Posh Restaurant for a year, but I won’t go to work somewhere I have to live in fear, it’s that easy.

So now I’m looking, again, for a job. I have a good possibility over in Sommières, a medieval market town I visited a lot when we lived over that way. There’s an offer to work way, way over the other side of Montpellier for an English couple, running the bistro version of the Michelin-starred place, but it’s too far away from here to be practical, I fear.

And other irons warming in the fire too; two offers to stay in Avignon for the season, which could be doable. A month working in a seaside restaurant. An old, mad chef who’d love to see me back. So something will happen, quite soon I hope. We’ll see.[ad#standard]

Lessons learned

05 Sunday Apr 2009

Posted by chriswardpress in Cooking, Restauranting, Scarlett, Stuff

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2008 was a real roller coaster of a year. It started going downhill after a hoped-for cool job in Ireland with A Famous Celebrity fell through when he and especially his wife turned out to be complete and utter lying tossers. Lesson learned.
The year went back uphill with the proposition of working back in Ireland for a member of the country’s richest family – and downhill six weeks into the job when it turned out that he didn’t intend to actually pay me any wages.
We were still going uphill with the birth of Scarlett on May 1 and were literally three days from moving house to Ireland, all three of us, when the wages bombshell dropped. Scarlett was a month old and we were in the throes of packing up the house in France to go spend a month in Ireland and then move over lock, stock and barrel when I learned – accidentally – that my erstwhile employer had no intention of paying me any wages while he was away from home. And since he spends six months a year abroad for tax purposes, my salary started looking very paltry.
Coupled with the fact that Ireland had really disappointed me as a country, this was a real downer. We were prepared to accept the country’s third-world health care – it costs €70 to visit a doctor, non-reimbursable, and you pay for children as for adults – and being out in the wilds of nowhere because, firstly, I actually loved the job; cooking for the old man was a joy, he was a real pleasure to work for personally. Unfortunately those with whom he chose to surround himself were wankers of the first order, bent on destroying me quite possibly because they saw me as ‘competition’ for his favours. And secondly, the offered salary would have allowed us to save up enough money to return to France in a few years and establish our own business. Well, wages are easy to promise but harder to pay, so that one stopped dead there.
It dragged on, of course. I had to return to Ireland to collect my belongings, fortunately when there was no one in the house. I had 75 kilos of luggage, all my cooking equipment and books; when traveling over my employer had paid the excess baggage charge but there was no way I could afford that myself, so I had to get a ferry from Dublin to Hollyhead and then a train across Wales and England to London and then up to my parents’ house near Bedford. There I left most of my belongings and brought the rest home on Easyjet – 20 kilos in the hold and who knows how much stuffed into my carry-on rucksack. A real nightmare 48 hours which all but did me in, both emotionally and physically. We had really invested in the idea of moving to Ireland, even being prepared to take our one-month-old daughter there to live, only to have the idea destroyed by a lying tart. Still, lesson learned – never, ever, ever go anywhere to work without a signed contract specifying everything you want. Old men make promises their staff have no intentions of keeping.
I quickly found a job in a restaurant in Avignon which was fine, a post as Chef de Partie in a gastronomic restaurant 10 minutes by pushbike from the flat. The salary was Enough and the work interesting, although some of the characters working there were jaw-droppingly weird. The Second who managed to get fired after serving rotting fish to one of the place’s favourite clients and sending off a sample to the analysis laboratory that was, literally, full of his own shit (permitted level of the bacteria you leave on food after not washing your hands following a bathroom break: 500; actual level of shitty bacteria in sample: 30,000); the cook who was a ‘mythoman’, as the French call them, a Walter Mitty character who had, variously, a dead daughter or a daughter who was studying to be a doctor; a daughter so poorly she was helicoptered to a brain specialist in Marseilles or who was doing well at school; a collection of vintage Ferraris and Bugattis or who drove a broken-down old Alfa Romeo. Then there were the control freak managers who wanted one, not two, slices of toast served with the foie gras and the portions of salad accompanying starters to be weighed, and who refused to replace the flood-damaged and filthy kitchen floor six years after it was ruined; waiters who spent, literally, hours chatting up female customers and shagging them instead of serving food. A chef who gave me a final, written warning (with, naturally, no preceding warnings at all) when he found one spot of tomato juice on a wall in a part of the building I’d never worked in. It goes on. All restaurants are special, but this one was Special. That place was a roller coaster ride all on its own, a funfair of excitement and disappointment on the Montagne Russe, as the French call them, that was our 2008. Lesson learned: everyone who works in, and especially who runs, restaurants is Mad with a capital Flibble.
On the up again. We got married in August, a truly splendid weekend of fun and partying with many of our favourite people traveling from all over France and the UK to have a good time with us. It makes you want to get married more often just so you can see them, really one of the favourite weekends of my whole life. And especially getting to work with the marvellous Steve and Caroline preparing Sunday lunch: thank you chaps, without you none of that would have been possible, I love you dearly. Lesson learned: Friends are great, cherish them.
My contract finished at the restaurant in October and things were fine for a while. The Irish Problem had been dragging on all through the summer, with them refusing point blank to pay me the wages they owed me. It was only a couple of thousand euros, but they would have none of it. So I was forced to take them to the Prud’Hommes, the Industrial Tribunal, the Commissioners as they’re called over there. The money would have been nice but the real problem, it turned out, was that they hadn’t given me an end-of-contract bit of paper I needed to be able to claim unemployment benefit in France. Well, they hadn’t ever given me a contract either, but the e-o-c one stopped me getting any unemployment benefit money at all from the start of November until it finally arrived in February, which made for a very, very difficult three and a half months for us. The Irish turd who had fucked everything up, the old man’s secretary, had apparently had my contract on her desk all the time – well, that’s what Sources Close To… told me, sources who had no reason to lie. Why she simply didn’t give it to me I can only guess, not know. Lesson learned: trust no one.
So I had to travel back to Ireland – four flights and a car hire, thank you – to attend the Commissioner’s Hearing in a town just down the road from the old man’s castle. The Commissioner, a retired judge, listened to my story and then started on their version. They had the Lying Secretary, The Lawyer and The Barrister in attendance; the Barrister had prepared a two-inch-thick brief which the Commissioner didn’t open. Their version of what happened was incredible, a real work of fantasy, but still. I listened patiently until The Commissioner stopped them, half an hour in, and asked them to leave the room. “This will go on all day today and probably tomorrow, if the size of this brief is anything to go by,” she said. “And they’re going to lose. How about I propose to them that they give you €2,500, they can beat it down to the €2,000 you want and we can all get home for lunch?” Fine by me, but it took another half an hour to persuade Them.
So they got off with a small fine for not having given me a contract in the first place and the €2,000 I wanted all along. Plus, and I’m guessing here, probably €10,000 in lawyer and barrister costs. I liked the old man and he deserves better advisors than this, and I’m sorry he ended up losing a chef he liked. No one won this one, although I lost less than the others. Lesson learned: get it in writing no matter how sincere the promises.
The Commissioner hearing was in late November and we spent two weeks over Christmas in England with my parents, a marvellous time for them and Scarlett who adored all the attention they gave her. It’s a real joy seeing the pleasure they give to each other, this was a real Up after the Downer that Ireland had been for me, but our money worries were mounting and becoming a real problem.
When I’d taken the P45 the Irish finally sent me into the French Unemployment office, they waved it away: P45? Here we want an E301, Monsieur. Now, an E301 is a P45 with the ‘P45’ name scratched out and ‘E301′ written over the top, but that doesn’t matter. The Former Employer should have furnished me with the E301 but, obviously, that wasn’t going to happen now, so a lot of research turned up another form to fill in and send to Ireland to turn a P45 into an E301. And that didn’t arrive until mid-February.
I gave the form to the French unemployment wonks and they promptly decided to pay me half the benefit they should have done, so another 10 days passed while they fixed that one, and we finally got some money – but only after incurring I Really Don’t Want To Know How Much in bank overdraft charges and interest. Essentially all the Irish settlement money. Lesson learned: Don’t work for the Irish, don’t trust anyone, check the bits of paper you need in advance, be nice to the French bureaucrats, have an understanding bank manager.
And of course, all this time I’ve been applying for jobs. At the end of last season no one was hiring as the economic crisis started. Then, as detailed in my last post, I applied for a couple of hundred jobs between January and now and had a really bad time of all that. I was offered and accepted a job just down the road from Delphine’s parents’ home in the Gard, but an innocent e-mail from me to the employer turned out to be a threat to drag her off to the Prud’Hommes/Industrial tribunal and she refused to hire me. Lesson learned: sort out everything before you’re hired. I thought I was just confirming something already promised, but in fact I uncovered a thin tissue of lies about wages and conditions and am glad I did – I’d have finished working 6 days a week for 3 days’ worth of wages.
It has been an extremely difficult 18 months, starting back in October 2007 when we first thought we’d be moving to Ireland to work for The Famous Irish Celebrity. People, it turns out, are simply not as nice as me. They lie. They cheat. And they smile while doing it. We’ve had some terrible moments and some fantastic moments and are now hoping, sincerely, that the next 18 months will be a lot smoother and easier. We’ll see, and hope for the best. I’m lucky that Delphine has been so understanding and supportive through all of this, I really couldn’t have coped without her or with a lesser woman, so thank you very much Chérie, mon amour, sans toi je serai rien. Lesson learned: marry a good woman.
Now I’m off to Uzes to work in a new restaurant. There’s a trial period of 14 days and, if it works out, we’ll be moving over there. But it’s all in writing now, we’re not buying plane tickets or house hunting until it’s certain, and there are back-up options waiting in the wings Just In Case.
Lessons learned.

New job at last!

01 Wednesday Apr 2009

Posted by chriswardpress in Cooking, Restauranting, Stuff

≈ 1 Comment

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Offered and accepted. Chef de Cuisine in a small restaurant in the Place aux Herbes, right in the middle of the medieval town of Uzes.

Getting there has been quite a journey, I have to say. I’ve been to something in the order of a couple of dozen interviews and have applied for getting on for 200 jobs since finishing at l’Auberge de la Treille last November. I turned down two jobs and still have two outstanding offers held in reserve Just In Case.

Frankly, many of the chefs and restaurant owners I met could do with taking a course or two in people management and interview techniques. One called me for interview at 8 in the morning – when I arrived two other candidates were already there and five more arrived before 8.30. He saw us in alphabetical order, not the order of arrival, so saw me at 1130, three and a half hours after I’d arrived. What a shit. Another did the same, albeit only summoning four of us for 1530. At least this one saw us in order of arrival, but WTF? Do these people really care so little about their future employees that they’re prepared to treat them like this?

Part of the problem, of course, is that in the current economic climate there are a LOT of unemployed cooks chasing fewer jobs than before, so Chefs and owners are getting cocky. I’m sure many don’t even give a second thought to the poor schmucks who are turning up like this on their doorsteps and simply treat us like dirt because, well, that works. I would refuse point blank to work for anyone who did this to me.

Equally I’d also refuse to work for any of those who called me for interview but who hadn’t actually read my CV before I turned up. So when they say things like, “Oh, you’re 48?” I understand that that means “I want a young commis I can boss around not a grown up who’ll answer back, ask ‘Why’ and have ideas that are better than mine and show me up”. Or who say, after speaking with me for 10 minutes, “Are you Belgian/German/Dutch?” Duh. Up there, top-right hand corner of my CV, the one in your hand, the one I e-mailed/posted to you last week, it says ‘Nationalité anglaise’.

And when they say, “Ah but I’m looking for someone who’s got experience of expediting 400 steak, chips and deep-fried frozen muck a day, not someone whose experience is doing 100 gastronomic meals a day,” what am I supposed to say? Your ad said ‘Seeking Second de cuisine for traditional restaurant’, how am I supposed to guess what you might want from that? Didn’t your preliminary scan through my CV clue you in a little? No? Ah, not had the time to read it? Fine, thanks for getting me to drive 150 kms for a five minute Conversation With An Idiot.

And don’t get me started about salaries. OK too late. There’s a new law in France which says that if you employ someone off the dole, you don’t have to pay their social charges for the first three months of employement saving employers about €100 a month. Fine. But only if you pay them minimum wage, €8.71 an hour. And in restaurants you get paid for 39 hours a week and the other hours you work are either ignored, or you get to take days off in lieu, or they’re paid (officially or unofficially). Just about everyone I met wants to pay minimum wage and then ‘We’ll make sure you’re OK with some cash out of the till, a few hundred euros a month/week in a good season’. Right. You wanna put that in writing? Thought not. But even if I could believe them, and frankly no one lies like a restaurant owner promising jam tomorrow, and they did give me a few hundred euros in cash every month, the problem comes at the end of the season when I have to sign back on the dole – then you only get something in the order of 70% of your previously declared salary. So 70% of minimum wage, i.e. about €800 a month. Good luck living on that with a wife and children.Because, Oh yes, no one is offering permanent contracts just six-month temporary ones “But we may be able to offer a permanent contract later on if we have a good season”. Well, I can certainly pay my rent with an offer like that, then!

Do Chefs and owners care about this? “Next please!” they cry as their eyes glaze over, you already forgotten.

I do have a lot of sympathy with owners at the moment, the French restaurant industry is deep in a hole and still digging for China. Many had pinned their hopes on a long-promised reduction in TVA (VAT in the UK, essentially sales tax) which currently adds itself at the rate of 19.6% to every restaurant bill. Former President Chirac promised to reduce it to 5.5% seven years ago, a promise taken up by President Nicholas ‘I get to shag Carla Bruni, nyah-nyah-nyah-nyahhhh-nyah’ Sarkozy during his election campaign. The reduction has finally been agreed by the EU (thank you Germany you bastards, You Must Be Stopped!) and the industry breathed a huge sigh of relief – Just in time for the summer season, hurrah! We are saved!

Er, not quite. Naturally, this being France, we can’t just say ‘TVA is reduced to 5.5% on restaurant meals’. Oh no. First we must set up a commission. And a panel. And conferences. All to decide how to implement it: should it be compulsory to reduce prices or increase wages or take on new staff? Who knows? Who gives a flying fuck? Well, the bureaucrats whose jobs depend on having enough to do that they look busy and important until it’s time for their two-month summer holidays – eating in cheap restaurants in the South of France moaning about how they’re not cheap enough. Wankers – that’s who.

So that’s the long way round to saying I’m really, really glad to have landed a decent job in an interesting restaurant with decent employers who pay overtime and seem to want to treat their staff like human beings, not scum. Result.

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Knives

13 Friday Mar 2009

Posted by chriswardpress in Cooking, Restauranting

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My knives, l-r: Henckels de-boner, Sabatier palette, H. fillet, S. steel, Swiss Army turning knife, no-name Chinese cleaver (just for breaking up bones), Arcos chef's knife, A. slicer, A. bread knife, A. de-boner, Metro paring knife

My knives, l-r: Henckels de-boner, Sabatier palette, H. fillet, S. steel, Swiss Army turning knife, no-name Chinese cleaver (just for breaking up bones), Arcos chef's knife, A. slicer, A. bread knife, A. de-boner, Metro paring knife


Several people have asked me about how and where to buy knives to use in the kitchen. In a few words: find a knife shop, chat with the owner, talk about what you’re doing, ask for recommendations. Don’t go buy a Shun/Henckels/Wusthoff/Japanese set online because you’ve read they’re the dog’s nads (or perfect for removing the dog’s nads), that won’t work. You’ll buy half a dozen knives of which one or two will suit you and the rest will never be touched.
Instead, buy a knife when you need it. To start, a big chef’s knife (20-30 cms, I find 25 perfect) and a small vegetable/paring knife will get you through most jobs, and I probably use these two for three quarters of everything I do in the kitchen. Add a filleting knife if you start working with fish, a de-boner if you work with meat, a slicing knife if you need to slice stuff thinly (for example, if you start working in a kebab restaurant..) I’ve never found a vegetable peeler that lasts more than a few weeks so buy packs of three or five at a time from the restaurant wholesaler and chuck them when they’re done cutting, recommendations accepted (I prefer the ones that are shaped like knives, not those other weird ones).
Keep them sharp. This means using a steel every single time you use a knife, and getting them professionally sharpened whenever the steel no longer does its job. Almost all my knives are German Zwilling Henckels. My 25cm chef’s knife, my slicing knife, bread knife and one of my de-boners are the Spanish, Arcos brand which belongs to Henckels. My flexible deboner (the Arcos one is a solid blade) is a Henckels Premium Brand, as is my filleting knife.
I have Sabatier vegetable, small chef’s (15cm) and filetting knives but I keep them at home and don’t use them at work, they don’t hold an edge long enough.
I have Swiss Army straight-blade (the cutting edge is straight, not curved) vegetable and turning (looks like a Turkish assassin’s curved blade) knives, and a Sabatier palette knife and steel. I also have a conventional-blade vegetable knife bought from Metro, the big French restaurant supplier/wholesaler, and given to me as a present by Jean-Rémi Joly, one of my first Chefs. I use Arcos scissors at work for cutting fish fins etc.
And I SWEAR by my Bron Coucke mandolin, I use this more than some of my knives for slicing vegetables. Microplane graters in three or four different sizes.
I didn’t particularly choose these brands, I came to own them by going to the knife shop in town (here in Avignon) and discussing what I want to do with the owner. He’s very helpful. He sells the whole range of Henckels, from the cheap Arcos to the very, very expensive premium ones. So when I started I was going to cookery school I wanted something cheap and durable and he recommended Arcos. Then I moved up in the kitchen, needed a flexible deboner, he recommended the Henckels. Last knife I bought from him was the (Arcos) slicing knife which I used dozens of times a day last summer to slice marinated and smoked salmon. I also take all my knives back to him every few months to get them professionally sharpened. I used my big chef’s knife the other day to slice some dried apricots and it’d been literally months since I’d used it, so I managed to slice off almost my entire index finger fingernail with it, clean in one go, easier than cutting apricot. They’re SHARP when they come back from him.
If you’re going to do anything with your knives I highly recommend finding a local knife shop to sharpen them for you and show you how to use a steel to maintain the edge. Hand wash, dry and keep them either in a wood block (I do this with my home knives) or in a folding knife pouch, which is where I keep my work knives. Not in a drawer!
When it comes down to it, though, in the end what counts is not how good and/or expensive your knives are, it’s what you do with them. Nothing beats buying a sack of carrots and julienning/brunoising them until your fingers bleed. Search on Google or Youtube, you’ll find plenty of videos showing you good knife techniques – keep your thumb AWAY from the cutting edge!
Practice makes perfect.
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Let’s cook

08 Sunday Mar 2009

Posted by chriswardpress in Cooking

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Made the best apricot chutney I’ve ever turned out this morning:
250g dried apricots
125g raw palm sugar. I think this is what it’s called. I find it in the Chinese supermarket, it comes in solid packs with the sugar in really solid 50g bars.
80g white vinegar
45g lemon juice
5 whole cloves

Cook very slowly – on the ‘leccy, it was at 2/9 for two or three hours, then bumped up to 6 for about 10 minutes to finish at the end. I don’t know if it was the lemon juice or the slow cooking, but the apricots kept their colour magnificently. The end result doesn’t taste quite vinegary enough for my taste, next time I think I’ll use the lemon juice in addition to the vinegar – basic chutney proportions are half the quantity of vinegar and sugar to your quantity of fruit or veg. I’ll try some vegetables next time too, I think.

Week 18: Household cabbage – what I did at school on February 6 2006

17 Sunday Aug 2008

Posted by chriswardpress in Cooking, Restauranting

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School


French bureaucracy is complicated for a number of reasons, not least the fact that it’s charged with keeping French bureaucracy going. In the UK, 11% of the workforce works for the government in one capacity or another – policemen, nurses, bureaucrats, whatever. In France, the percentage is 24%. Twenty-four percent! A quarter of the workforce which does nothing productive at all, just spends its days providing fodder for the nation’s stand-up comedians and moaners. Blimey.
So today at school we spend an hour learning about the French judicial system which, according to the bureaucrats who organise the French educational system, I need to know about before I’m safe to unleash on the omelette-and-chips buying French public.
Like much of the civilised world, French government is divided into Executive, Legislative and Judicial branches (are you asleep yet? Try reading this in a hot, stuffy, sunlit classroom after getting up at 6 am, working in a hot kitchen all morning and then stuffing yourself with stodge at lunchtime) and the separations thereof  “As detailed in the 5th French Constitution of 1958, the fundamental text of the Republic, of the state of law and democracy,” I noted before nodding off. And then I woke up and drew this huge diagram of the French judicial system, the eight tribunals and all the rest of it. Blimey. No really, blimey.
Anyway. Luckily this morning was much more interesting. The cookery we learn at school is very traditional; the recipes largely date back to Escoffier and the early 20th century, some beyond that. It’s the basis of French cuisine from which everything since has sprung – this is how Escoffier made a fond de veau, veal stock, no one has found a better method so this is how we do it now is what we are told at school. The French are, quite rightly in my view, very proud that their cuisine is the foundation of most cookery in the Western world and, naturally, insist that theirs is the best version of it available.
In a way it’s reassuring; these methods have been tried and tested by generations of chefs over more than a hundred years so they work and work well; equally it’s discomfiting to realise that, if your recipe doesn’t work it really is your own fault and it’s really you who’s done something wrong.
I am most discomfited by things which are supposed to rise and foam, everything from whipped cream to bread. So today I have the cold sweats as we approach the pâte à brioche which we are going to use to make a favourite snack dish of many French people, the saucisson brioché, sausage in a (brioche) bun, i.e. posh hot dogs.
Frankly I’d much rather make the saucisson, a process that interests me much more than baking simply because I know I can do it. I’ve already written about how Pascal, the nice chap with whom I share a workstation at school, whips my cream for me while I cut his potatoes into pretty shapes. My inability to make things rise extends to bread too I’m sure, since every time I’ve tried making it myself at home – either manually or in a bread machine – I’ve managed to produce only doorstop-quality lumps of flour and water so unleavened the ancient Israelites would be proud of me. Although if one of my loaves fell on them out of the sky they’d end up with concussion rather than a decent feed. I have no idea why I can’t make bread or decently-risen cakes; I have warm hands, I have acid sweat, I am stupid – all are possibilities and, indeed, true in at least two of the three cases. The fact remains that, in the rising stakes, I’m a non-starter.
So brioche, Chef Garnier assures us, is easy. Anyone can make it. It’s almost as easy as profiteroles, he says. My profiteroles always end up as flat as my Yorkshire puddings, I tell him, and have no reason to think that my brioche will be any different.
We’ll see, he says.
The lesson starts with a discussion of flour types; today we’re using what is known in France as Type 45 or Farine de Patissier, since it is very rich in gluten, the protein which gives it the strength to stay up once it’s risen. “This is very white flour,” he tells us. “Even whiter than English skin.” Har har, whatever would he do without the English guy to tease? Anyway, the higher the number the less gluten the flour has, Chef tells us. Right.
So we sieve the flour and form it into two adjacent rings, one large and one small. These are fontaines, which literally means fountains but translates better as wells, to receive, in the large one, the majority of the liquid and eggs; the smaller one takes the yeast dissolved in a little of the warmed milk; the large well takes the sugar and, importantly, the salt. Mix the salt and yeast and the former kills the latter and your dough will not rise. Hmm. Perhaps salt from my sweaty hands is killing the yeast? But then why am I equally incapable of making cakes rise when using levure chimique, baking powder?
Anyway. We mix up the two wells separately for a couple of minutes, adding the salt, sugar and eggs to the large well before mixing the two fontaines together. The mixture, we are warned, must be neither too dry nor too humid; it must have body, Chef says, and you give it body by battering it against the steel worktop, throwing it down and lifting it up like some sort of alien blob, thumping it down to Give It Body. It’s done when it no longer sticks to the counter, apparently, but the fault in the process here is that, until it no longer sticks to the counter, it sticks to the counter. And your hands, clothes, hair, face and anything else it touches. So much for Escoffier’s great recipes.
But eventually I wear my dough out enough so that it gives up (most) of its hold on me, my clothes and the worktop and I add little parcels of softened butter (beurre en pomade en petits parcelles) before leaving it to rise for half an hour at 30-35 degrees. At which point we ‘chase out the carbonic gas’, as Chef translates it (badly) for me before allowing it to rise again.
Roll it out, wrap it round your sausage (Missis!), paint it with egg yolk and everything in the oven for 45 minutes or so until it looks just like the ones they sell in the shops. Well, a misshapen version of one they sell in the shops, one which only my mother could love and even she would be caught selling it surreptitiously to the dog under the table when she thought I wasn’t watching.
Still. Chef deems them all Good Enough to let us out to lunch and we trek off to the school canteen to eat, well, saucisson brioché. What a coincidence. I am careful to choose a slice from one not made by me and quite tasty it is too, if you ignore most of the pastry and eat the bought-in saucisson inside.
And avoiding the stodge is a good idea, it turns out, since there’s that aforementioned class on the French legal system immediately after lunch.
We eventually escape with our lives after a nice nap to spend the afternoon making ‘Chou de ménage’, household cabbage. What?
Household cabbage, it turns out, is a cabbage cut into quarters and then used by Chef as an example of ‘Braiser par expansion’, braising by expansion whereby the delicious taste of the cabbage expands out into its cooking medium (can you spot the fatal flaw in this argument, children? Can you?)
Anyway. Trim your cabbage, cut it into four equal quarters, rinse it in vinegared water to kill the beasties, blanch in boiling water for a few minutes, refresh in iced water, drain, cut off the root which you’d left to hold the whole thing together while it cooked (oops), fry off your Garniture Aromatique (onions and carrots cut into a nice macedoine), add the cabbage wrapped with bacon or couenne (the membrane which surrounds a pig’s stomach – very useful for holding together things which would otherwise float off and do their own thing – pop it into your casserole dish and cook it in the oven at 200 degrees Centigrade for an hour and a quarter. Blimey. All this for braised cabbage? Ah, but the lessons are about braising and wrapping and making a macedoine with everything the same size. It’s just a shame that we couldn’t have learned these lessons on something edible.
Still. We finish off the afternoon with some Pommes Fondants, melting potatoes. The object of which, of course, is not to finish up with melted potatoes. Well, not until they arrive in the client’s mouth that is. We start with large potatoes, 7-8 centimetre jobbies which we cut in two and then turn so that they’re all the same size and seven-sided shape and then cook in a buttered dish in the oven, moistening it regularly with ‘fond blanc’, white chicken stock (i.e. stock made from unroasted chicken bones – as opposed to fond brun, which is made with roasted bones) so they sit up to their waists in it. Except that, at the end of the cooking time (an hour or so) the liquid should all be just evaporated and your spuds barely coloured. So get that one right or turn your pommes fondants into pommes on fire.

Home for a bit

04 Friday Jan 2008

Posted by chriswardpress in Cooking

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Back in Avignon after three weeks cooking other people’s Christmas, New Year and other festive meals. In three different countries, no less; England, Scotland and Switzerland – the hateful, right-hand, German-speaking-only-you-vill-obey! part of Switzerland, too. The part that’s a four hour train ride from the civilised, left-hand, un croissant monsieur? French-speaking part.

I cooked lots of interesting things; pheasant deux façons, for example – confit the legs and roast the crowns and use the bits you rip out of the crowns to make a nice stock for the gravy. Pheasant, like much poultry and game, needs one cooking time for the breasts and a bit longer for the thighs and if you leave them whole and cook for the thighs the breasts are too dry; vice-versa and the legs are too rare. Confiting slowly (I used goose fat) and at a low temperature allows you to leave them pinkish (as they should be – cook at 60 degrees or so) but still cooked through. Halve the crowns at service, everyone gets a leg and a breast portion and is happy with that. First time with pheasant for me, worked very nicely.

I also made up some wild mushroom casseroles, which works very well with the dried variety; soak them appropriately, scoop the mushrooms out and filter the liquid, fry off a couple of shallots then add the mushrooms and cook until they stop steaming; gradually add back the soaking liquid – just cover them, allow that to almost evaporate, barely cover again and repeat until all the liquid has gone; then repeat the process with the alcohol of your choice – port, sherry, Noilly Prat, something nice and fortified – three or four times; then repeat again with some good stock – I like veal, it gives a nice meaty flavour. Finish with enough stock to make the casserole liquid, monter au beurre, then turn into individual ramekins and cover with a circle of puff pastry, decorated with posh leaves and a few holes to let steam out. Bake at 180 for about 20 minutes, delicious. In fact I think this is my favourite new starter.

An old starter revisited was seafood risotto. Make the risotto (fry off shallots in lots of butter, add rice, faire nacrer – sorry, don’t know the English for that, it means let the rice go transparent) with preferably fish stock, although this time in Switzerland I used the vegetable variety and very well it worked too. Then when done throw in a few hundred grammes of chopped smoked salmon and, at the very last moment, a couple of handfuls of roquette salad. Decorate on the plate with baked prawns and a few more roquette leaves. I served this with a prawn sauce – shell the prawns (never, ever buy cooked, you can’t get the alimentary canals out and who wants to eat prawn shit?) and make a stock with the heads and liquids therein (very, very tasty indeed that green stuff, don’t throw it away). Pass the stock through a moulin à legumes if you have one (those French potato mashers where you pour stuff into the giant funnel-shaped machine and turn the handle at the top) to smash up the heads, or if you’re lazy give it a whizz in the robotchef to chop them up, then filter them through a fine sieve. Reduce this down by half, stir in fresh cream, season, voilà almost free, truly delicious sauce.

In fact, as usual I like doing starters more than mains or puddings (although bread and butter pudding made with real Italian Pannetone cake and whole-egg crème anglaise – it puffs up to twice its resting size – is a new winner with me), as I have since I was Chef de Partie des Entrées at Les Agassins with Jean-Rémi. Mains always seem to end up as protein, veg, starch no matter how you play. Perhaps I should open a Tapas restaurant?

I’ve worked for some delightful people and in some interesting kitchens; two of them had Agas which, apart from a couple of weeks with Steve (and thanks to whom I know how to use the things – cheers Steve!) I’ve never used before. Now I love them and, come the glorious day, we’ll have one in our kitchen. Perhaps.

I used to travel with tonnes, almost literally, of kitchen equipment; now I’ve learned to make do and travel with just my knives, madeleine silicone moulds and a couple of cheffy mouling rings. Even more restrictive airline baggage weight limits don’t help, I have to say. And in fact I’m doing my best to never, ever, ever travel on Ryainair again – I’ve already booked on Easyjet from Marseilles for my next two return trips, so badly have Ryanair pissed me off. I get that they want to maximise their profits, and get that they’re doing so by pretending to help their passengers pay as little as possible. I also get that they’ve failed to do this in any sort of fashion which makes you think they regard you, the paying customer, as anything more important than a dog turd. Flights advertised on their website as costing €0.02 actually cost nearer €50 because they fail to include the compulsory airport taxes we’re all obliged to pay. Also, they limit checked baggage – checking in a suitcase sir? That’ll be a fiver! – to 15 kilos where everyone else allows 20. This is a real problem for me as my suitcase itself weight 7 kilos and my knives 6; add in a pair of knickers and my kitchen shoes and I’m overweight in more ways than one and have to struggle to cram all my clothes into a carry-on rucksack. And then, last time I travelled from Montpellier having carefully obeyed all the rules an ASSHOLE couple got onto the plane last carrying – I am honestly not making this up – 17 (yes, SEVEN FUCKING TEEN) different items of luggage, including an entire hi-fi with three large speakers. Did anyone say, “Erm, one piece of carry-on luggage each, Sir and Madam”? Did they fuck. Instead the cabin crew squished up everyone else’s coats and carryons to make room. And the one actual suitcase they carried on was so heavy that the cabin steward was physically incapable of picking it up and so had to store it in one of the unused food lockers. So, I hate Ryanair because they make it plain I’m a worthless piece of shit. Message received and understood, roll on the day Easyjet take over even more of your routes.

And, hurrah! Easyjet will be flying out of Montpellier from next spring! Oh, frabulous joy!

I had three flights on British Airways over the holidays and it was a real shock to be given free food – albeit a sandwich and a nudge-nudge Breakaway bar – and FREE booze! Gin and tonic, bottle-ette of red wine, fizzy water and a tea all at no extra charge! Bargain! Especially as my clients paid for the tickets.

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