• Home
  • Ordinary Immortals Novel
  • The Cookery Book
  • The Recipes
  • List of posts
  • Seconds

Most Excellent!

Most Excellent!

Author Archives: chriswardpress

Recipe: Fondue de tomates

18 Monday Aug 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Recipe

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Confit, Fondue de tomates, Garlic, Shallots, Tips, Tomates confits, Tomato jam, Tomatoes, Veal stock

Ingredients100g shallots500g confit tomatoes2-3 garlic bulbs250 ml veal stock (optional)SaltHerbes de ProvenceOlive oilA few pinches of sugar (optional)MethodThis is nothing like a meat fondue where you dip chunks of meat into boiling oil; nor is it a sauce tomato, one of Escoffier’s five Sauces meres, mother sauces.It’s more like a tomato jam which you can use as a base for savoury tarts, or spread on croutons for a cocktail snack, or anywhere you fancy a smear of tomato-ey goodness.Begin by confiting your tomatoes. Confit means preserve, usually in this case by drying them. Except you don’t want to completely dry your tomatoes, just get rid of some of the water from them. So, cut out the hard stalk base and then cut them in half horizontally and using your finger tips, scoop out the seeds and as much juice as you can. Put them cut-side up, salt them and sprinkle lightly with mixed herbs from Provence (dried basil, thyme, rosemary, whatever – it’s all good). Fresh is fine too if you prefer. Pop them into a low (80C) oven for two or three hours, until they look somewhat shriveled but not completely dried up.Turn them over and pinch the skins between your thumb and forefinger and you’ll find the skins should just pull off. If they won’t come off you’ve not cooked them for long enough, so cook them a bit more. This avoids you having non-chewable bits of tomato skin in your sauce. Proper cooks do this by ‘monder’-ing their tomatoes – dunk them for a few seconds in boiling water, then into iced water, then peeling off the skin, then cutting them in half and removing the seeds. This is best attempted when you have that vital piece of kitchen equipment a ‘stagiaire’ – a work experience kid or intern.So. Chop your shallots up finely and put them to sweat in a little olive oil in a hot pan. Oh, a tip here: put your pan on to heat first then, when it’s hot, add your oil. Do this so the pan is already thoroughly hot before heating the oil – otherwise the pan will have cold spots which will cool down the food you add, and you don’t want that. Even cooking is what we’re looking for.While your shallots are sweating roughly chop up the tomatoes and add them to the pan. Sweat them whilst hacking them into smaller bits with with the edge of your wooden spatula.Or you can cut out all the complicated bits above and use a tin of tomatoes. Your choice.Add the sugar at the end if the sauce doesn’t taste sweet enough.You can also add the veal stock if you like to give your fondue more body. This also works well for a sauce, e.g. Tomato sauce for a bolognaise. If you do add the stock, add it a ladleful at a time, reducing each ladleful down to almost nothing before adding another. This improves the flavour by not drowning the tomatoes and boiling them inside the stock.You reduce the whole thing down until it’s the consistency you’re looking for – a bit more runny for a tart, perhaps, stickier for a spreading constituency. Up to you.

Recipe: Sauce Bonne Femme

18 Monday Aug 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Recipe

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Butter, Cream, fish stock, Noilly Prat, Sauce bonne femme, Vermouth

Ingredients250ml fish stockSplash of Noilly Prat200ml thick cream100g unsalted butterMethodThis is a good example of where your preparation and mise en place come into their own. Having previously made your fumet de poisson, fish stock – see Chapter 6’s recipe – you simply reduce some of it down and then thicken it with cream and/or butter.This is, in fact, a prime tenet of nouvelle cuisine as originally championed back in the 1950s by Fernand Point. He, rebelling against the Age d’Or cookery of Escoffier which had dominated the first half of the century, refused to thicken sauces with flour. “Beurre, toujours du beurre…Butter, always butter” he said, shortly before dying of a heart attack a plump, middle-aged man.So. Take a suitable quantity of your fish stock – for four people think a quarter of a litre.After cooking your fish – say, pan-frying some filets of rouget, red mullet – deglaze the pan with a little vermouth – Noilly Prat is the French cook’s weapon of choice here. Deglazing means splashing in a little liquid, barely enough to cover the bottom of the pan over a high heat and then scraping furiously at bottom of said pan with a wooden scraper to dislodge all the nice bits stuck to it. Nice bits caused by the famous Maillard Reactions, which have nothing to do with a duck.Once you’ve deglazed you add your stock and reduce it as quickly as possible to a syrupy consistency. Don’t faff around here, boil it like mad. Then, add 200 ml of thick cream, reduce the whole by half or more until it’s nice and thick. Then whisk in your butter in small cubes straight from fridge, away from the heat. Serve immediately spooned over your fish fillets.

Recipe: Fish stock

18 Monday Aug 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Recipe

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

fish bones, fish stock, fumet de poisson, Garniture Aromatique

Unlike veal or beef stock, fish stock needs hardly any cooking. Even less than chicken stock in fact, and that only takes an hour.Ingredients600 grammes fish bones – flat fish are great (sole, turbot), also cod, halibut, that sort of thing. Don’t use bones from oily fish like salmon or mackerel – they make oily stock, which you don’t want at all.150 grammes mixed diced carrots, onions, bits of mushrooms, herb stalks for a Garniture Aromatique (GA)1 litre water100 ml white wineA splash of Noilly Prat or some other vermouth.Cracked pepperMethodBreak up the carcasses a bit and leave them in a bowl under running water until you’ve removed any blood. Rinse thoroughly. Simmer your GA in a little butter, add the fish bones and sweat them for a few minutes. Cover with the water and the (optional) alcohol.Bring it to a boil and allow it to simmer VERY gently for 20-25 minutes, skimming off the scum from the surface regularly. Add the pepper a few minutes before the end.Pass through a fine sieve or muslin cloth, cool quickly.

Vignette: Skills I never had before

18 Monday Aug 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Vignette: A slice of m...

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Brunoise, Dicing, Julienne, Julienne of fred peper, Skills, Slicing smoked salmon, Writing

I’ve been marvelling at myself recently, marvelling at the skills I have now that I simply didn’t have years ago. Last night, for example, I sliced up some home-smoked salmon with which to make some smoked salmon and dill-cream lasagnes (long story about how I got to the point of making salmon lasagne in the evening to follow one day) and was amazed to see how thinly I can now slice a filet of smoked salmon.Ditto slicing up juliennes of red pepper to decorate a salad, or a brunoise of lemon peel. So actually I suppose it’s my knife skills that are impressing me most right now, even though I have always been easily impressed.Where did these skills come from? From all those years of working in professional kitchens, obviously, earning my living doing what I like doing.Before, if I didn’t buy smoked salmon ready-sliced it was going to be served in chunks, and the nearest thing I’d heard of to julienne of red peppers was probably Julian Clary. Now I can do both myself, and make a cracking beurre blanc, cook your steak bleu, à point or, if you insist, bien cuit and serve 55 people their starters inside an hour. Blimey.But I still love writing, which is why I’m here at 7 in the morning trying to crank out some book chapters. Or rather, here avoiding cranking out some book chapters by pretending that this diary is a way to earn money when it really isn’t.Ciao

Epilogue: Afterwards

18 Monday Aug 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Chapter

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Afterwards, Carpal Tunnel syndrome, Children, Daughters, Lunatics, Moving, Personal service, Private chef, Teacher

After passing my exam I carried on working at Les Agassins until the season ended in October, and then went on to become Chef de Cuisine (and plongeur, sous-chef, restaurant manager, sommelier and commis de rang) at Chalet Bertie for the winter season in Morzine. This was the year when there was almost no snow anywhere in the French Alps – apart from Morzine. So, it was a busy season both in the chalet and on the slopes.I was responsible for everything to do with the kitchen, from menu writing, ordering and shopping to peeling the potatoes and serving the food. And taking the blame, although luckily there wasn’t much of that.It was a nice step up from Les Agassins. I’d made the move into Personal Service, as we call it, on the advice of Steve and Caroline, two great friends and chefs from my days as a computer technologist at The Times as Dr Keyboard.I had to do a number of trials and interviews, the first of which was very bizarre; when I got there it turned out there was already a chef in the job and the owner just wanted me to spy on him and work out if he was nicking stuff; the second one was for the job I accepted up in Morzine and was great – good people, unlimited food budget, I get to do what I want; the third trial was in a tiny flat near Chelsea Harbour for six, no seven, no make that 11 people. No we’re 10 now. Anyway, they loved the food and promised to get back in touch and let me know by the weekend. They never did, and nor did the agency which sent me up there – despite me sending them several e-mails. So don’t go looking at Alprecruit if you need a job.I do recommend Natives. They found me this job and presented me for several which pay decent money – it seems that most people work up in the Alps because they want to go skiing, not because they want to cook. Well, a little skiing now and then will be very welcome, but cooking is what I went for.After Morzine I worked in St Tropez in the Spring and then again in summer. For me, St Tropex is famous for traffic jams – one gigantic big one which just fills the town from end to end. I cooked for a private French family in their villa overlooking the town; mum, dad and a handful of kids, two other members of staff and a few visitors popping in here and there. Including the lady who’s now nanny to the children of Picasso’s grandson’s children. Which was kinda cool. And Jean-Jacques Goldman, who is World Famous in France. He sings, apparently.I cooked for an English family up in the hills near Grasse for a few weeks in between St Tropez stints but missed being at home in Avignon. I carried on in the same vein through the autumn and winter, including cooking other people’s Christmas, New Year and other festive meals in three different countries in 20 days.Then the next Spring came what promised to be a life-changing event and turned out to be just that, albeit in a different way than I’d hoped. I went to Ireland to work for a member of a very famous family – after a week cooking for an even more famous Irish dancer and his lunatic wife – on a trial, with the hope and expectation of it turning into a proper, full-time in-service job. I’d already done a weekend cooking for them after Christmas when they kindly flew not only me but Delphine, too, over to Dublin.I worked for six weeks until the end of April when, on the 31st, Delphine announced that she was about to go into labour with our first child. I jumped on the next plane, arriving at home at six in the evening on the 31st, just in time to drive her to the clinic in Avignon at 2 am the next morning. Scarlett was born at 2 pm on the 1st. Good job I didn’t wait a day for a flight.The next month was massive on many levels – new babies, it turns out, are pretty disruptive of your regular schedule. We were packing the house up to move back to Ireland, all three of us, when I found out that the old man’s staff weren’t actually planning on paying me any wages.I’d got on fine with him but he employed at least one plain and simple evil witch. I managed to work out that because he was going to spend at least six months a year abroad for tax purposes, I’d be paid only for the six months when he was in residence. And that car that came with the job? Nope. Not yours. Oh, and no house either. So no wages, no car, no house and you’re living up a mountain in the middle of nowhere with a wife who speaks little English and a one month old baby. OK?Erm, no. I had to sue them for the money they already owed me and travel back to Ireland for the hearing to get it. The lesson is, of course, Get It In Writing First, because other people simply don’t care about you and yours.So, not a great experience. But it did mean we got to go on living in Avignon, and I found a job without much difficulty as a Chef de Partie des Entrées in another restaurant in Avignon, albeit one not up to the level of Les Agassins. No jobs going there, unfortunately.That autumn we decided to move a hundred kilometres back west to be nearer Delphine’s family and landed in Sommieres, a really beautiful medieval town 45 minutes from the seaside. Finding a job turned out to be less easy this time, mainly I think because of my age and because I knew too much. But I was eventually hired as Second de Cuisine in the restaurant of a chain hotel in nearby Lunel, and that was OK. Apart from the mad chef, obviously. But hey. Goes with the territory.Then in 2010 my old carpal tunnel syndrome problems flared up really badly and I had to give up cooking all together. I was off sick for six months, completely unable to work, and the government Medecin de Travail, the Employment Doctor, declared me officially Unfit To Work in Restaurant Kitchens Ever Again.So, after a government-sponsored retraining and conversion process, I ended up teaching English. Now, I teach English and ‘Professional Culture’ to would-be hotel and restaurant managers at the world-class Vatel school in Nimes. It’s a great job and I love talking about the restaurant world to my students, who are studying for Bachelor and Masters Degrees in International Hotel and Business Management.Delphine and I have a second daughter, Roxanne who’s now 4 – Scarlett’s 6 – and the French life with a papa who still loves cooking suits them very well.Yes, I still cook. In fact I do all the cooking at home, and much of the washing up still. My favorite dish? One of the first I learned to make at Les Agassins all those years ago: a Trilogie – confit tomatoes, goat cheese and aubergines.Plus ça change; my life is now, as it was then, all Eat, Sleep, Cook and, of course, School!End.

Image

One more cover

15 Friday Aug 2014

ESCS cover 5

Posted by chriswardpress | Filed under Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

My new cover idea

14 Thursday Aug 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Starting out

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Cover, Cover pix

ESCS cover 4  I think I prefer the first one here, with the washing up. Although the onion picture is nicer.The problem right now is that pictures are expensive, so this is the best I can get for free right now.ESCS cover 3

Cover idea

13 Wednesday Aug 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Uncategorized

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Cover

ESCS cover And without reflections. Looks better I think.ESCS cover 2

Vignette: Tired

13 Wednesday Aug 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Vignette: A slice of m...

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Shoulder of lamb, Sleep, Tired

The working year will end at about 1500 on Friday, and I can’t wait for it. There have been many, many days this year when all I can think about is when I’ll next be able to go to sleep, and today is just another one of them. At 3 o’clock this afternoon I’ll be able to sleep again, yippeeeee.Today is going to be a good day, that said: I’ve got half a dozen shoulders of lamb (épaules d’agneau) waiting for me to de-bone in the cold room right now, so that’ll be fun; we will also be turning some of the veg for tomorrow as well (group of about 30 for lunch).Late night last night, but not as late as some recently; we had two 1 ams in the past 10 days, and it’s VERY hard getting up the next day after one of those; a real case of not believing the time when the alarm sounds.But like the lamb shoulders today I’m doing more and more cool prep work. For yesterday’s group of 25 I got to butcher the faux filets – de-fatting, ne-nerving, cutting and then stringing them up into portions, which was cool indeed.I do love this job. But I do need a break, and can’t wait for Friday as I say; then we’re back for one day on January 3, then four more from the 9 to 13, then closed for a month. I’m planning to sleep for my holidays this year.

Vignette: Washing jackets and slacking off

13 Wednesday Aug 2014

Posted by chriswardpress in Vignette: A slice of m...

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Pearl onions, Poor slicing and dicing, Radish flowers, Washing powder

Just a quick tip for all those of you who buy stuff in supermarkets and grocery stores, and an aside for the cooks who have to prepare the stuff you buy: If you buy titchy little onions and potatoes, we’re going to make you peel the damned things. Do you have any idea at all how long it takes to peel a kilo of pearl onions? And that you can buy them ready-peeled and frozen? Eh?And while we’re talking about buying stuff, allow me to pass on a hint for those of you who do the buying of washing powder in your households. Having spent a year living on minimum wage, I’ve naturally gravitated towards the lower, cheaper portions of the display shelving in Carrefour and other supermarkets, and have found that the very, very cheapest washing powder you can buy – currently called Tex’Til but this will change next month as it does every month – is just as good as the stuff I used to buy, Persil Non-Bio and then Persil Regular. I have tested this most extensively over the past nine months on the dirtiest objects known to humankind – the work jackets of restaurant washer-uppers, so I can promise you this is a real test, not one where you pour ketchup on something and then rinse it under the tap.Tex’Til has, unfortunately, recently gone up in price. But then so has Persil – probably something to do with the price of oil. But still, at €2.57 (it used to be €2.50 although has been as high as €5) for five kilos, it represents a fairly decent saving over the price of Persil – €13.57 last time I bothered checking. Look for the big, blue boxes down the bottom of the display, you won’t be disappointed with the results. And if you’re a manufacturer of washing powder, can you explain to me why your posh products cost five times more and don’t wash any better? Seems to me the only reason it’s sold at such a price is (a) to pay for the adverts and (b) because you have the bollocks to demand such a price.Anyway.One day back at work this week, just me and Chef for a group of 14 Wednesday lunchtime; I did prep. and plate decoration for his entrées and desserts, and wasn’t very happy with what I did. I sliced the kiwis unevenly and failed to slice the right number (nearly twice what I should have done, somehow) and my radish flowers were mostly askew. Not good enough, must try harder.I do find slicing and chopping and cutting stuff evenly one of the hardest things to do. The secret is to actually look at what you’re cutting, rather than assuming it’s all OK because it won’t be. That and 10 years practise should do the trick.Another day at work next Tuesday and then school starts the following Monday, with three more days at the kitchen straight after before we have a month-long break while they do some building work in the hotel.Think I’ll go and watch another DVD.

← Older posts
Newer posts →

Recent Posts

  • France needs glasses
  • I quite like cooking
  • Moaning
  • Moving on
  • Happy Birthday

Recent Comments

Patrick Mackie's avatarPatrick Mackie on 10 000*
Unknown's avatarLa Rentrée | Most Ex… on On holiday
nicola fellows's avatarnicola fellows on Trilogies.
Unknown's avatarWhat the kitchen thi… on Why small restaurants may not…
Pete's avatarPete on Quick tip: When you need three…

Archives

Categories

  • Afterwards
  • Blogroll
  • Chapter
  • Cooking
  • Depths of ignorance—
  • Influences
  • Overtime
  • Quick tip
  • Recipe
  • Restauranting
  • Review
  • Scarlett
  • Starting out
  • Stuff
  • The Book
  • Uncategorized
  • Vignette: A slice of m…

Meta

  • Create account
  • Log in
  • Entries feed
  • Comments feed
  • WordPress.com

Blog at WordPress.com.

  • Subscribe Subscribed
    • Most Excellent!
    • Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
    • Most Excellent!
    • Subscribe Subscribed
    • Sign up
    • Log in
    • Report this content
    • View site in Reader
    • Manage subscriptions
    • Collapse this bar
 

Loading Comments...