To St Tropez, that is, with the family I worked for over the Ascension holiday back in May.

Which means more traffic jams sitting in a ridiculous SWB Landrover Defender. A black one designed especially to absorb heat and focus it on the driver.

And more ridiculous prices: €39/kilo for rougets anyone? Thought not. Unless you have an unlimited food budget which, luckily, I do.

The demands of the family mean that I’m up at 7 every morning to get to the fish market and the butcher before the good stuff is gone, and quite often going back shopping in the afternoon when they’ve changed their minds about what to eat for dinner.

Mostly it’s simple stuff, BBQs and salads, roasted veg, that sort of thing although last Saturday I did a very nice rabbit terrine with edible flowers studded around the outside for a dinner party. Classy stuff, this.